Winding Feather Fighter

Not a problem Bruce. I must be honest though, Steven is the true Bruce Bump spokeman. Heck, he even came prepared with published evidence of your work. The book he compiled of one of your threads was amazing. It left many of our visitors to the booth speachless.
 
murphda2 said:
Not a problem Bruce. I must be honest though, Steven is the true Bruce Bump spokeman. Heck, he even came prepared with published evidence of your work. The book he compiled of one of your threads was amazing. It left many of our visitors to the booth speachless.
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I havent seen the hard copy yet but he wouldnt send it here until after the show. He just emailed me and said he had to scrape off the dried on drool and other DNA and has FedX'ed it to me finially. 2thumbs
 
Mighty fine, Bruce!

So, is this going to be a take-down (reason for bedding) or do you plan on
doing a final epoxy once the handle is all finished?

Beautiful work, as always, Bruce!

Dana
 
Dana Hackney said:
So, is this going to be a take-down (reason for bedding) or do you plan on
doing a final epoxy once the handle is all finished?

Beautiful work, as always, Bruce!

Dana
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Hi Bro,
Yep, a take down model. I thinks its almost as easy to make them all take downs. The advantages out-wiegh the disadvantages IMO.
 
I ready to apply the Tru-Oil finish now.
I was talking with Roger T about why he uses stain and he says that black walnut will turn orange with time unless it gets a stain to seal out the Ultraviolet light. He actually gave me this almost gone can of walnut stain.

I sanded all the scratches out and applied a coat of the Watco brand oil stain.

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After talking with several custom rifle makers they all had about the same thing to say about oil finishes. It seems the Tru-Oil is a good finish but its way too thick and you cant go by the instuctions. I emptied out 1/3 the oil from a new bottle and re-filled it with mineral spirits. I use a new bottle because this stuff has a short shelf life after its been opened especially. The unused portion turns to jelly so dont waste money buying the big economy bottle.

Anyway apply the oil with your finger and sand it with used 320 until it makes a slurry and looks to be drying up. Just leave it that way for about a week, yes a week. Smell it once in a while to see if it still smells wet. It needs to dry completely to seal the pores. That slurry filled the pores with its own wood dust and if you fuss with it before its dry it will have open pores again and will take a hundred coats to re-fill them again. That may be a slight exageration but you know what I mean.

I have done this on over 150 pairs of pistol grips and it does work. I know other people do things other ways but this is how I do it so no arguments. Its time consuming to say the least and thats why others do it differently. My super glue finish is much quicker but I want to show how my professional gun maker friends taught me. Yes this means this thread wont be over quick but I can do other things on the guard and spacers etc. between coats. After the seal (slurry) coat finially dries I can put one coat on per day or so. I will put it on and sand it back off with finer and finer grit paper until I reach about 4000 grit. The idea is to add oil and polish it at the same time. It builds slowly but believe me the results are worth the trouble. Have you ever accidently spilled oil on your cars paint job and tried to wipe it off? It doesnt come back off all the way, it always has that thin film of oil. This is the same principle. Wipe on, Wipe off. This is actually the extent of my karate skills. :D

Stained and put together one last time before applying the Tru Oil finish

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Great jon on the projects , I am blown away with your work. I have always had problems with the grain of blackwalnit showing your tips helped me out alot .
 
Good things come to those who wait. I'm sure the time will be worth it. Looking real good just put together as things stand right now and it will only get better.

Roger
 
Bruce, I fallow all of your threads and it is hard for me to say anything, Your work is outstanding, awesome, beautiful, one of a kind, and all that other good stuff.
You never cease to amaze me!!

Someday I am going to make a brain copy machine and stick it to your head:D

I am still waiting to be adopted by the way;) Oh wait can you adopt a 29 year oldhuh1

Great work once again
 
Bruce I love the way this knife is coming along, I can't wait to see the final package. Kind of like waiting on Christmas morning when I was a kid (yesterday that is) :haha:

Jim
 
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Great WIP, Bruce, but you're not getting the shop dogs in the pics often enough. You don't want them going on stike.
 
Denton Eller said:
Great WIP, Bruce, but you're not getting the shop dogs in the pics often enough. You don't want them going on stike.
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If you notice each time they are in the picture its outside. I go out there to take a picture and they have to get in it without fail. They probally think we
re going in for a cookie. They love cookies. dog1
 
I picked up the sheath from Roughcountry today. This picture doesnt show all the details in the tooling and the design work that went into this sheath. Thanks Robin for taking the time for me, I can see why you are busy with saddle making. What an artist.

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After getting the knife back from Robin I applied the first of many coats of Tru-oil and sanded it mostly back off again while wet using 400 grit. I can give it a coat or two per day for a week or two and sand it between going up in grits until I reach 2000. Be sure it is dry before applying another coat. note: this is thinned by 1/3 mineral spirits remember that. Peel the label off the bottle as the instructions are NG.
I told you it was time consuming didnt I?

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Good golly that sheath is gorgeous! Gonna make a fine compliment to your beautiful knife. 2thumbs

That handle is going to be mighty pretty, too. Do you burnish with cloth after all the oiling/sanding is done?
 
That sheath is stunning just as is the knife. I love the tool work on the sheath. The maker's attention to detail in his work shows great depth and dimension.
 
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