Winding Feather Fighter
- Thread starter Bruce Bump
- Start date
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Thanks Shane,
I'm not going to have it engraved but instead polish the 1018 and nickel plate it. I also plan to make a simple 1018 tip for the sheath and plate it too. Sometimes less is more.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Hi James,
Yes I wax it with minwax dark furniture polish as a top coat. Be sure its dry, all the pores are filled and there is no waves. Any waves or flat spots will begin to show as the finish gets glossy and will need to be sanded out maybe many times to get a smooth finish. Dont sand the "slurry" coat off. Patience will pay off.
Roger Pinnock
Well-Known Member
The tooling on that sheath is fantastic.
Roger
Roger
James Terrio
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tips, Bruce! I have some of Don Hanson's figured walnut as well as a couple nice pieces of cherry I just got from a friend, so I'll be trying that technique soon 2thumbs
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Thanks Gents!
I formed and soldered the 1018 steel tip for the sheath today. This tip will be nickel plated the same as all the rest of the 1018 parts. I used high temp silver solder and a jewelers torch. If I had a tig welder this would have been a good one to use it on.
The two halves are .040" thick and are hammered around a 1/4" thick steel mandrel shaped exactly like the sheath tip and rounded on the edges. All the excess is cut off before soldering. The joint needs to be as flat as possible so theres no gaps to fill. These two parts are also tapered slightly. Care must be taken to make them the right size so theres no unsightly gaps around the top where it meets the leather. The leather is ground away enough to make room for the tip except for just a little at the top for a snug fit. I think I'll epoxy it and drill a small hole at the very bottom and pin it on with a nickel silver domed pin from the back side.
I should have mentioned that this sheet metal was stiff and moved hard until I ran the torch over it to anneal it. I had to do that twice as it seemed to work harden from bending it over the mandrel.
More to come on this soon.
I formed and soldered the 1018 steel tip for the sheath today. This tip will be nickel plated the same as all the rest of the 1018 parts. I used high temp silver solder and a jewelers torch. If I had a tig welder this would have been a good one to use it on.
The two halves are .040" thick and are hammered around a 1/4" thick steel mandrel shaped exactly like the sheath tip and rounded on the edges. All the excess is cut off before soldering. The joint needs to be as flat as possible so theres no gaps to fill. These two parts are also tapered slightly. Care must be taken to make them the right size so theres no unsightly gaps around the top where it meets the leather. The leather is ground away enough to make room for the tip except for just a little at the top for a snug fit. I think I'll epoxy it and drill a small hole at the very bottom and pin it on with a nickel silver domed pin from the back side.
I should have mentioned that this sheet metal was stiff and moved hard until I ran the torch over it to anneal it. I had to do that twice as it seemed to work harden from bending it over the mandrel.
More to come on this soon.
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Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
An update on the black walnut handle. I'm up to 6 or 7 coats and at 1500 grit. Its nice and smooth and beginning to take on a deeper look. Its about 1/2 way done as I want to go to 2500 - 4000 grit and polish it.
Chad Nichols
Well-Known Member
WoW!!! That steel is NICE!! the whole kife will be Awsome!
roughcountry
Well-Known Member
Wow Bruce, I was wondering how the tip would come together. Looks great.
The handle is gonna be stunning.2thumbs
The handle is gonna be stunning.2thumbs
Roger Pinnock
Well-Known Member
maxcutter03
Well-Known Member
Stunning!!!!!! Thanks for the WIP.
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Well the handle is at 4000 grit pink jewelers polishing cloth now and ready to send out for the checkering. I spent some time on the spacers and coin edged them with a fine checkering file and polished the guard and pommel in preparation for the nickel plating process. I like a mirror finish on the nickel plating so I needed to mirror finish the 1018 parts including the tip for the sheath.
This knife is nearly finished.
Dont worry I'll try to get a couple better pictures of the knife especially after we get the nickel plating finished. The mirror parts are so hard to photograph.
This knife is nearly finished.
Dont worry I'll try to get a couple better pictures of the knife especially after we get the nickel plating finished. The mirror parts are so hard to photograph.
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Roger Pinnock
Well-Known Member
Sweet. Coin edge on the spacers looks great.
Roger
Roger
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Sticks
Well-Known Member
Hi Bruce:
ED is my friend and neighbor. He just got this great Delta Rockwell steel cutting band saw (used). It has a very fine tooth blade that cuts so slowly I'd rather use a hacksaw. Anyway, he and I, 'cause I would like to use the saw, would appreciate a little more information. Where do you get the blades? What brand do to you prefer? Frankly, we don't know anything about this subject. Thank you. I enjoy all your threads, until I look at my knives. Ha!
Jay
ED is my friend and neighbor. He just got this great Delta Rockwell steel cutting band saw (used). It has a very fine tooth blade that cuts so slowly I'd rather use a hacksaw. Anyway, he and I, 'cause I would like to use the saw, would appreciate a little more information. Where do you get the blades? What brand do to you prefer? Frankly, we don't know anything about this subject. Thank you. I enjoy all your threads, until I look at my knives. Ha!
Jay
Bruce Bump
Forum Owner-Moderator
Hi Jay,
Sorry for the delay,
I buy Lenox Diemaster II bandsaw blades from our local welding supply store. I've cut a mile of steel I bet. Cutting metal is super slow in comparison with cutting wood so be patient.