What's going on in your shop?

Gene Kimmi said:
I use the exact same bottle of coffee. I’ll mix about 1/2 of it in a quart canning jar with hot water. Once done etching, I store it in the refrigerator. When needed again, I just heat it back up in the microwave. I’ve had it last more than a year that way.
Click to expand...
Do you think you get a better etch than using FC? I've never tried coffee but those etches look awesome.
 
opaul said:
Where can I get that rubber backing? Thanks for sharing
Click to expand...
Boss has them on his website. I found the rubber backing causes too much chattering with my machine. I used cork gasket material from the auto parts store and it’s smooth as butter. Yours might run fine with the rubber.
 
opaul said:
Where can I get that rubber backing? Thanks for sharing
Click to expand...
usaknifemaker.com

Grinder Disc Rubber Backing

Grinder Disc Rubber Backing - Comes in 10"x10" and 12"x12" Use this hard rubber backing on your disc grinder between the metal disc and the abrasive. This material is a hard rubber (approximately 70A duro - just like your contact wheel) is .1" thick. Bond it to the disc with permanent type...
usaknifemaker.com usaknifemaker.com
 
Mike Miller, how are you finding the G Carta to work? End result is nice, but it takes a while to get there! I used 2 pieces so far and it is a bear to work! Clogs belts quickly and takes a long time to hand sand. Any particular belts/sandpaper that you find works well? I tried some Zirc belts, and some red ceramics and the red ceramics did better, but had to be cleaned a lot. Sandpaper, I have been using 3M stuff and it's OK, but slow. I went to 120 by belt and then hand from there.
 
Taz575 said:
Mike Miller, how are you finding the G Carta to work? End result is nice, but it takes a while to get there! I used 2 pieces so far and it is a bear to work! Clogs belts quickly and takes a long time to hand sand. Any particular belts/sandpaper that you find works well? I tried some Zirc belts, and some red ceramics and the red ceramics did better, but had to be cleaned a lot. Sandpaper, I have been using 3M stuff and it's OK, but slow. I went to 120 by belt and then hand from there.
Click to expand...
These I belt to 400 then go back and hand sand with 240 using WD-40 as a lubricant. 400 then 600 then 1000 all with WD-40.
 
...

Time to fit some scales.
This is microshred carbon fiber. The manufacture went out of business so this is my last piece of this. I hope we can find someone else to make it.
Anyway, CF sands very very quickly. It's expensive to learn that. I am using a dull 220grit 1" belt with a slack belt set up. Cutting a 2" belt into 1" wide is very handy for sculpting handles or about anything really. The tighter the tension on the belt the "flatter" it will grind. CF is horrible to your lungs. I always wear a respirator when sanding it.
scale.jpg


Here are the new scales fitted, sanded and buffed. Also I made a pocket clip from the same damascus as the blade.
new clip.jpg

The back spacer needed an upgrade. The one shown was just for temporary use during the build. I am cutting out another piece of damascus for the back bar. I blue it with Dykem, scribe around the edge and drill the 3 screw holes all while it is clamped in the vice grips.
new spacer.jpg

I am just going to guess on the "inside" cut lines on the spacer bar for now.
new spacer2.jpg

Now I need to make sure the back spacer bar doesn't interfere with the blade in the closed position. I have some trimming to.
I am using my new Pica marker Ed Caffrey talked about in one of his posts recently. I like them. Much better than a sharpie for this kind of thing.
fitting spacer for clearance.jpg

That's it for today. Have a good one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top