Bruce McLeish
Well-Known Member
Very nice, John-boy.
What's going on in your shop?
- Thread starter Justin Presson
- Start date
Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
Nice! Really nice!
Johan Nel
Well-Known Member
Looks excellent John!
Daniel Macina
Well-Known Member
Owl
KNIFE MAKER
That's a great looking folder John!
Couple questions:
How was the inscription on the scales done?
How did you temper the AEB-L spring?
Thank you.
it is a worthwhile process to have in your tool set. I use a cork belt with compound on most every knife anymore. It’s fast and forgiving.
I still have to figure out my process a little better but I played around with a cork belt and compound today.View attachment 74994
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
Thank you!
The engraving was done on my K40 laser engraver. It’s a relatively inexpensive laser machine. You can find them on ebay for about $400.
I temper my AEBL springs at 1000°f for two hours. (the spring and blade get exactly the same heat treat. The only difference between them is the temper.)
Tracy, absolutely BEAUTIFUL work brother!
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
I was hoping to have a pic of my nice new shiny AmeriBrade Fastback, but Fed Ex "lost" it
FEDEX is striking out a lot lately.
Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
Finally making progress on the chef knife for my grand-daughter. When hand sanding I've had trouble getting the flats...flat. Finally have it flat at 400 grit. Planning to take it to 600.
I figured out what I was doing wrong. When I started the initial grind I always use the Bubble jig to at least get things started. Though mostly I use it all the time. However I set the angle wrong and only realized it after I was about half through my initial grind. So I had to change the angle of the grind and basically ended up with a convex grind. Which would be OK I suppose, except I ended up with a very thin edge.
I think I have it corrected and started on the scales before finishing the final sanding of the blade. The scales are Desert Ironwood. Getting there.
I figured out what I was doing wrong. When I started the initial grind I always use the Bubble jig to at least get things started. Though mostly I use it all the time. However I set the angle wrong and only realized it after I was about half through my initial grind. So I had to change the angle of the grind and basically ended up with a convex grind. Which would be OK I suppose, except I ended up with a very thin edge.
I think I have it corrected and started on the scales before finishing the final sanding of the blade. The scales are Desert Ironwood. Getting there.
Randy Lucius
Well-Known Member
Got one shaped up tonight. Still have a lot of stuff on my bench to get done.
John Wilson
Well-Known Member
that one ia super clean, Randy. Beautiful.
Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
I agree with John... super clean. Nice choice of materials.
Bruce McLeish
Well-Known Member
I liked the "mistake" thread better !
Randy Lucius
Well-Known Member
It's black corian. Polishes like glass. Paper and linen micarta always have a texture to them and it bothers my OCD sometimes. I've read on some forums that corian is brittle but I haven't found it to be so. I've dropped it without damage but maybe I've just gotten lucky. As long as it's not abused I think it will be fine. Seems plenty tough to me.
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mixed bag post today.
I am working on finishing the auto knife.
It was stupidly heavy. I used a 3/8" end mill and hollowed out the handles. Huge improvement.
I needed to countersink the pivot head I plan on using and didn't have a counterbore to fit.
The pivot hole is already there so it acts like a pilot hole. I never hand hold anything when drilling over 1/4" and most of the time I don't hand hold 1/4" drill. I have learned this the hard way. Anyway, I drilled with a 3/8" drill bit just enough to get a lip to hold an end mill. I then switched to an end mill and plunged the hole to depth. Putting it in the jig and clamping it down helps with chatter. This is a fairly dodgy way to do things but it's quick and works well enough.
Using a height gauge I scribe the edge down .050". I am shocked I don't have solid blue fingers after using they Dykum.
These height gauges can be picked up for under a $100 and I seem to use it on every folder I do. Make sure it has a carbide point so you can use it to scribe your blade edge before grinding.
Now I need to convex the handles. I drilled and tapped a 1" piece of stock and screwed on a handle.
I can't do it and take a picture so basically I hold it like this to the flat platen and rotate it on the vertical axis.
and finally today, see the gooseneck light? It's called a sewing machine light. There are several kinds on Amazon. This one has 30 little LED lights, a magnetic base and 12" flexible goose neck. I think it was like $15. These are flat awesome. I have them on two grinders and my drill press here. Highly recommended.
I am working on finishing the auto knife.
It was stupidly heavy. I used a 3/8" end mill and hollowed out the handles. Huge improvement.
I needed to countersink the pivot head I plan on using and didn't have a counterbore to fit.
The pivot hole is already there so it acts like a pilot hole. I never hand hold anything when drilling over 1/4" and most of the time I don't hand hold 1/4" drill. I have learned this the hard way. Anyway, I drilled with a 3/8" drill bit just enough to get a lip to hold an end mill. I then switched to an end mill and plunged the hole to depth. Putting it in the jig and clamping it down helps with chatter. This is a fairly dodgy way to do things but it's quick and works well enough.
Using a height gauge I scribe the edge down .050". I am shocked I don't have solid blue fingers after using they Dykum.
These height gauges can be picked up for under a $100 and I seem to use it on every folder I do. Make sure it has a carbide point so you can use it to scribe your blade edge before grinding.
Now I need to convex the handles. I drilled and tapped a 1" piece of stock and screwed on a handle.
I can't do it and take a picture so basically I hold it like this to the flat platen and rotate it on the vertical axis.
and finally today, see the gooseneck light? It's called a sewing machine light. There are several kinds on Amazon. This one has 30 little LED lights, a magnetic base and 12" flexible goose neck. I think it was like $15. These are flat awesome. I have them on two grinders and my drill press here. Highly recommended.