Rice 2020 WIP

Back in the shop (garage) last night for a while. Got new scales cut outta my Texas Ebony and Spalted Texas Pecan and got 'em flattened out on my lil ol' piece of granite.


Now - can someone tell me the secret squirrel code for drilling a stupid small hole at a 40* angle through copper - without the stoopid bit walking and breaking? Preferably before I go wheelin' - with my drill press being drug behind my jeep...

Center punch a guide hole, Alice!
 
Yeah - punched it hillbilly :rolleyes: - guess I'll drill perpedicularly and then tilt - close enough fer a pin. supergluing a piece of wood to it prolly work too
 
Now - can someone tell me the secret squirrel code for drilling a stupid small hole at a 40* angle through copper - without the stoopid bit walking and breaking? Preferably before I go wheelin' - with my drill press being drug behind my jeep...

I might try a drill start at 90*, then go for the 40*. You'd have a pocket for the drill bit to stay in and hopefully keep it in place.

I see you're already ahead of me :)
 
Ok - man - what a ride this has been...

I think I am about ready to HTreat ol' hillbilly's blade
I think I have the knife scales ready to glue on (Pretty sure that is after heat treat :rolleyes: )

But I am just not sure - so nooBEE question time
  1. My finish will either be some kind of satin or blasted - not a polished finish kind of guy
  2. Hand sand to xxx?? I assume that means that I start at xx grit and end up at xxx prior to HT
    1. How many stops in between?
    2. What is my final target prior to HT? After HT?
  3. I know size matters - but does direction? Same for flats and bevels? Does steel have a 'grain' like wood?
  4. When do I etch my mark? I think after Htreat??? After all sanding? Most??
  5. Rounding of edges? before HT?
I suck at this so.... I mean I have SO MUCH TO LEARN! :cool:
 
Ok - man - what a ride this has been...

I think I am about ready to HTreat ol' hillbilly's blade
I think I have the knife scales ready to glue on (Pretty sure that is after heat treat :rolleyes: )

But I am just not sure - so nooBEE question time
  1. My finish will either be some kind of satin or blasted - not a polished finish kind of guy
  2. Hand sand to xxx?? I assume that means that I start at xx grit and end up at xxx prior to HT
    1. How many stops in between?
    2. What is my final target prior to HT? After HT?
  3. I know size matters - but does direction? Same for flats and bevels? Does steel have a 'grain' like wood?
  4. When do I etch my mark? I think after Htreat??? After all sanding? Most??
  5. Rounding of edges? before HT?
I suck at this so.... I mean I have SO MUCH TO LEARN! :cool:
Yes, you do , Mathilda !
 
I can only answer for me. Others may vary. Everybody is different. You make it work with the tools you have on hand. I am fortunate to have a KMG grinder so finishing is different than someone that only hand finishes. Make sense??

My finish will either be some kind of satin or blasted - not a polished finish kind of guy. (This makes perfect sense.)
Hand sand to xxx?? I assume that means that I start at xx grit and end up at xxx prior to HT
How many stops in between? (I hand sand to 600 grit after HT usually. 100, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600. I normally grind to 240 grit prior to HT. Then grind to 400 grit after HT.)
What is my final target prior to HT? After HT? See above.
I know size matters - but does direction? (Yes. Sand from tip to butt. Not top to bottom.)
Same for flats and bevels? Yes. Usually.
Does steel have a 'grain' like wood? Not really but steel is way different than wood with sanding.
When do I etch my mark? I think after Htreat??? After all sanding? Most?? (I do not etch - I cold stamp.)
Rounding of edges? before HT? Not really.

Hope this helps.
 
Well, I'm not a hand finisher...but here's what I would do. :)

Don't over finish before HT. 220 tops. Get any heavy scratches off the spine and curves for sure. I see you're using 1084. That's to your favor. You can get by with minimal time in the (forge or oven?). Once you have quenched and tempered, throw that dude in white vinegar for about 8 hours. If you take it out and all the black oxide scale wipes off, you're done. If not, put it back in. Then you can start back sanding at 120, and quickly moves up to 220. Most of the sanding happens at 120 and 220. This is where you get your crisp lines and flats worked out. Sand at angles so your deep scratches show and get them out before you move up in grit. 400 grit properly done, leaves a pretty nice finish. A fine or very fine scrotchbrite pad applied on a sanding backer just like paper leaves a top notch satin finish. The scotchbrite isn't nearly so bad with j-hooking as paper either.
 
I can only answer for me. Others may vary. Everybody is different. You make it work with the tools you have on hand. I am fortunate to have a KMG grinder so finishing is different than someone that only hand finishes. Make sense??

Hope this helps.
Thanks Dennis - it does - I appreciate it
 
Well, I'm not a hand finisher...but here's what I would do. :)

Don't over finish before HT. 220 tops. Get any heavy scratches off the spine and curves for sure. I see you're using 1084. That's to your favor. You can get by with minimal time in the (forge or oven?). Once you have quenched and tempered, throw that dude in white vinegar for about 8 hours. If you take it out and all the black oxide scale wipes off, you're done. If not, put it back in. Then you can start back sanding at 120, and quickly moves up to 220. Most of the sanding happens at 120 and 220. This is where you get your crisp lines and flats worked out. Sand at angles so your deep scratches show and get them out before you move up in grit. 400 grit properly done, leaves a pretty nice finish. A fine or very fine scrotchbrite pad applied on a sanding backer just like paper leaves a top notch satin finish. The scotchbrite isn't nearly so bad with j-hooking as paper either.
THANK YOU- white vinegar huh? This site is so awesome
 
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