Rice 2020 WIP

Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
So re-did my jig a bit so I could use my file guide (just cut a slot in an old tv stand door) drilled some holes and attached that piece of brass ol' HillBilly sent me - ( Thanks Bruce!) so's I could try and keep my file clean.

Observation: This steel that I ordered up - it doesn't create near as much chunks of scat as those old files do - maybe because they had been hardened 50 years ago - and then annealed by an amateur like me?

Finally - after all this time - I am starting to file the bevel in ol' hillbilly's knife - and starting to covet some of all ya'alls' (all ya'all's is plural-possessive for ya'all) grinder skills...


Did some preliminary shaping on the Texas Ebony handles before beginning the bevels - still have work to do.

That's coming right along. Good work!
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
Thanks Bruce! I am trying hard

How are you and the Mrs? They lifted your mandatory evac order - right? (like you would leave anyway...)

Stay safe my friend!
We're ok...really smokey. AQI is hovering around 400 . Actually deadly if you're not careful. Yes , the "mandatory" evac has been lifted .... but that order has no backbone -they cannot force you to leave. So, of course, we stayed.
Thanks for askin, we appreciate it.
 

Sean Jones

Well-Known Member
We're ok...really smokey. AQI is hovering around 400 . Actually deadly if you're not careful. Yes , the "mandatory" evac has been lifted .... but that order has no backbone -they cannot force you to leave. So, of course, we stayed.
Thanks for askin, we appreciate it.
I've been wondering how you were faring with the fires. Glad to hear things are OK.
 

Greg Rice

Well-Known Member
Ok - need an IQ bump here using this bevel calculator:


I put in my 1/8 inch thickness and that I wanted a .75" bevel - put me at 4.8* which I could tell was too steep - since my steel is NOT 1/8" or .125" but only .120 - I lowered the angle eventually to 3.7* - but it is still too steep - I am approaching my edge scribe and not yet quite .45" in bevel height. I probably need to go down to 3* - but would like to know either the formula or how to correctly use the calculator... :confused:

Now, to be fair, I did do a double scribe on the edge to leave myself a little meat for HT - but not that much. What am I doing wrong here? What am I missing?
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
Ok - need an IQ bump here using this bevel calculator:


I put in my 1/8 inch thickness and that I wanted a .75" bevel - put me at 4.8* which I could tell was too steep - since my steel is NOT 1/8" or .125" but only .120 - I lowered the angle eventually to 3.7* - but it is still too steep - I am approaching my edge scribe and not yet quite .45" in bevel height. I probably need to go down to 3* - but would like to know either the formula or how to correctly use the calculator... :confused:

Now, to be fair, I did do a double scribe on the edge to leave myself a little meat for HT - but not that much. What am I doing wrong here? What am I missing?
The actual formula (if you're using dc knives) is in the small print bottom center of screen.
 

Greg Rice

Well-Known Member
ok - so that bevel formula (and the subsequent calculator) requires something that I am missing or not understanding - 4.7* is flat incorrect for what I need (probably due to ignorance)

Anyway - I found this site below where it is actually looking at the metal I remove and taking into account the width left after grinding/filing - then dividing the depth of bevel cut by the height of bevel - will give you a number that you can run through the Arc Tangent - it gave me a degree of 2.9* to get what I wanted. Of course - you guys probably all knew that - I still don't know what I did wrong on the DC Knives calculator - It is definitely an
'ID Ten T' error for sure

Here is a link to deign tech with their method that I was able to comprehend (it had pictures!)
Design Tech Blade Angle

Here is a link to Rapid Tables Tangent and Arc Tangent Calculators (you will use it to plug in results from Design Tech)
Tan & Arc Tan

I put these here so I could find them again some day....
 

Bruce McLeish

Well-Known Member
ok - so that bevel formula (and the subsequent calculator) requires something that I am missing or not understanding - 4.7* is flat incorrect for what I need (probably due to ignorance)

Anyway - I found this site below where it is actually looking at the metal I remove and taking into account the width left after grinding/filing - then dividing the depth of bevel cut by the height of bevel - will give you a number that you can run through the Arc Tangent - it gave me a degree of 2.9* to get what I wanted. Of course - you guys probably all knew that - I still don't know what I did wrong on the DC Knives calculator - It is definitely an
'ID Ten T' error for sure

Here is a link to deign tech with their method that I was able to comprehend (it had pictures!)
Design Tech Blade Angle

Here is a link to Rapid Tables Tangent and Arc Tangent Calculators (you will use it to plug in results from Design Tech)
Tan & Arc Tan

I put these here so I could find them again some day....
as long as you get there, it don't matter what road ya took. Glad ya figgered it out, Lucille.
 

SS369

Well-Known Member
Hey Greg, I feel your distress. I, too, like things just so.
I have to ask, how are you measuring and setting your angles? How much between your two center lines?
I have and still use D. Comeau's calculator and it works for me. (gets me real close.) I fuss with a digital angle cube til I get it on the money and go with it.
When I am real close I finish grinding by hand (2x72 grinder), no jigs, and then walk the grind line up to where I want it. Then I spend the time hand sanding it clean.
At first I used a filing jig and did fairly well, but, still had to massage everything custom.

Scott
 

Greg Rice

Well-Known Member
Thanks Scott - let me see

First, I know that it is me because no one else seems to have issues.... and yes, I have issues)(

So when I used DC's calculator, It doesn't seem to allow for very much input (or I am using the wrong one) - I could only choose my width from a drop down and closest to .120 was 1/8" And I chose the 3/4 bevel height giving 4.7*. It just assumes a 'zero' space between the two lines I guess. I couldn't figure out how to tweak it (back to that ID 10 T error)

Now - to answer - the best I can see the space between the two lines is about .05xxxx on my calipers - so about 1/16th of an inch...
So - stock is .120 @ spine and will be .0625 when I stop - halving each of those I get a triangle of material removed of .75 height and .02875 at it's base (depth of cut) - dividing the depth by the height yields .03833
Plugging that into the arc tan = 2.2* and I went with my gut of 3*figuring like you I could finish it off manual - it's just a lot of difference between 2.2* and 4.8*

UPDATE: As I sit here and type this - It occurred to me - when you guys use DC's bevel calculator - do you halve your stock thickness before plugging it in? If I did THAT using my swag of 1/8 inch thick halved gives me 1/16 stock thickness and .75 bevel height - Then DC's gives me 2.4*!!!!

Is that the mystery piece I have been missing!!!???
 

Greg Rice

Well-Known Member
Hey gang! Took a couple of weeks off and went to our place in Colorado - much needed break! Now - back to the grind...

So I have started my draw filing and then went to hand sanding. Learning one thing for sure - ol' Bruce knows what he is talking about - use the brass and keep the files clean! I THINK I am about ready to heat treat this wench of a knife - any thoughts?

Dunno why everyone puts wood and stuff inside the pipe? I attached a small vise head I got in a box of tools from an auction - I can twist and turn in every direction.

Sanding Sticks? Thanks Ed!!

If you don't zoom in - it looks great. Kinda like me - I'm not fat, your too close - at 100 yards I look to weigh a buck 80 - just sayin...
 
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