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It also helps to store the stencil in a phone book. Put the stencil in the middle of the book while it's still wet. They come out nice and flat everytime.

Like opaul I started a thread about my start in knife making. https://knifedogs.com/threads/adventures-in-knife-making.44605/

1550 seems high for 1075. I use 1470 with only a couple minute soak. Temper at 390.

It's a very dense oily wood that's very popular for decks and boats. I was given a couple of board feet awhile back. While it's tough it liked to check, and burned easily when shaping handles. In the end I chose not use it.

I would bet it's Ipe.

That does look normal. If you play with plate quenching and air you get some pretty cool colors. The problem is it's just on the surface so it does wear off with time.

Very nice for a third knife! If you see flaws in your work you already a leg up on some. I can't recommend a half round file enough when you're getting started. They are slow, and let you dial in shaping without the worry of removing to much material.

I laughed for 5 minutes when I read that! Many of you don't know this, but if you live in MT and start making knives you're going to be at least an ok knife maker. It's in the water. Some of you know, some don't, but John Doyle got his start in knife while living in MT. Welcome to KD!

They may not be willing to give the MTR without him being the purchaser of the material. Your employer should have the MTR's, if you are making any sort of finished product they need traceability to protect themselves. The tag gives you all kinds of good information. The coil is cold rolled...

Opaul a few things to look at before thinking the steel is bad. Can you easily bend it by hand? If so how much pressure are you using when grinding? AEBL likes to warp while grinding, I noticed it the most when getting the blade warm while grinding one side, and dipping it in the water bucket...

My plan is to use it after the initial etching process with ferric. Then soak the blade and hope it affects the hamon line.

I don't think that trying a coffee etch is a bad idea. As you stated it's used all the time on Damascus. The dark rich color it produces has me intrigued, and I'll be experimenting with it here soon on some hamon. Worst case scenario is it was a horrible idea and I'll ruin a knife..... It...

Don't do it... The cost of a kit, then the cost of new phone because your a knife maker not a tech geek is not worth it.

Your blade looks great!

Or when you've gone past the point of no return. It happens to everyone, if you don't have a drawer, or a bucket full of rejects you're not trying hard enough. It doesn't matter how many hours you have into a knife if it's wrong, it's wrong.

That amboyna handled knife is beautiful. Simple and elegant all at the same time.

There are a ton of things you can use the file guide for. Here are a few examples. Perfect plunge lines. Squaring up areas that need to be square for a good fit and finish.

You should try the Hermes 220 ceramic from Tru-grit. I like them and they seem to last awhile. The only complaint I have is the belt gets gummy when wet, and gives a smudged look to the blade.

Turn the welder to max, and slow your wire speed down just below 3. Core wire in low amp machines can be kinda finicky. The wire likes low feed rates, and higher amps for penetration. If the wire seems to melt off before new wire hits the material, in small increments turn the wire feed up.

I haven't posted much for sometime. Work has been busy, and life always gets in the way of knifemaking. That's going to change soon. I'm starting to work on some long over due projects, and grabbed up some new steel to play with.