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After my last one turned out to be junk, I decided to purposely break this one. It took three bends to 90 to break the tip inch off, then I figured I would see if it could go more. I’ve got a Crescent wrench on the tang. Still hasn’t cracked lol. W2. I had a hamon on this one that I didn’t really like and figured it probably wouldn’t be able to be re-hardened without warping. Friday sacrifice to the knife gods.
 
Edwardshandmadeknives said:
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After my last one turned out to be junk, I decided to purposely break this one. It took three bends to 90 to break the tip inch off, then I figured I would see if it could go more. I’ve got a Crescent wrench on the tang. Still hasn’t cracked lol. W2. I had a hamon on this one that I didn’t really like and figured it probably wouldn’t be able to be re-hardened without warping. Friday sacrifice to the knife gods.
Click to expand...
Wow! What degree temper did you use?
 
Almost done with this one.
Working through a batch I started.
I got a CNC a couple of weeks ago and that is now taking all my time while not at my full time job.
I've so far made everything by hand (to include this knife), but I'm trying to step into the realm of CNC to be able to do production style runs on folding knives.
Wish me luck, I get out of the army in 18 months and I'd like to go full time knife making .
 

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Making a Yanagi-Ba for myself. These are a cool build. The right side of the blade is a flat grind and the left side is a very slight hollow grind. Reasoning is the different bevels help in not damaging the super thin fish cuts and helping the meat not to "hang up" on the blade. There are some other similar theories. The length is to allow one clean cut rather than sawing, which gives a better look to the meat.

Dunno about all that but it seemed like a cool challenge and I need a good sushi knife and a reason to use the mammoth. 1095 heat treated to about 62rc, stainless bolster, mammoth scales. Blade is 9.5"

This is a right handed knife so the flat grind goes on the right side.

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Hollow grind (Left)
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Handle - will put some stainless and black accents b/t the bolster and scales
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Finished this one up today - Yanagi-ba (Fish/Sushi Knife). This one is mine!
  • 1095 62 rc
  • Hollow (left) and Flat (right) grind - right handed knife
  • Stainless bolsters
  • Alternating black and stainless accents
  • Stabilized/Dyed Wooly Mammoth molar
  • 20 coats of Tru-oil/ArmorAll
  • 15.25" OAL
  • 10" Blade

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Took a piece of my 16 layer billet and forged it out. This was the end cut and was around 1.3" thick, 1.7" wide and around 1.4" long at the longest, but the length was rounded out due to being the end of the billet. I tig welded (poorly!) a handle onto the chunk, but it only held for a few heats, so I resorted to trying to hold it in tongs while hammering half of the billet at a time. Eventually got to the point where I could hold it in tongs and hammer half of the billet, flip and repeat. Took a while to draw this blade out!

It's around 4.25" cutting edge, .140" thick, desert ironwood handle scales with red liners/spacer, guard is black g10/copper laminate and the frame for the handle is a black g10 burl. Can't wait to get some time to draw the full billet out, cut and re stack to get more layers visible! First time hand hammering a big chunk to draw it out and shape a billet out of it and my first piece of layered damascus/pattern welded steel (not from a cable).440352107_10102248856615510_1237283128734785877_n.jpg440240149_10102248856610520_8273525873350511269_n.jpg
 
Working on three new knives. 1 Ranger and 2 small hunters. All will have brass bolsters. Handles will include cherry burl, elm burl and California buckeye burl.

I have the handles epoxied on the knife blanks. Just need to allow them to cure so I can shape them. Shouldn’t take too long to finish them up.

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Went to Dragons Breath Forge on Weds and finished out my first billet! It was around 12" long, 1.7" wide and 1.3" thick after the first weld set after using by buddies Coal Iron 12 ton at his place. I used the SayMak 50KG at the forge (green one in the Foreground, but the BIG Nazel is in the background!) to draw out that bar to almost 27" and around 1/2" thick, cut into 6, surface grind, restack, tig the ends and forge welded that stack and drew it out to a 33" long, 1.8" wide and .32" thick bar! 96 layers of random damascus I can further pattern after profiling or leave as random and forge out further. I have some end cuts I can play with a bit more as well! 438255042_10102250875659330_2471268934109894838_n.jpg438275507_10102250875599450_6927459736298208069_n.jpg438275928_10102250875235180_2497381204817044435_n.jpg438230974_10102250874262130_2931739089519057980_n.jpg438299999_10102250874197260_2919308357915087309_n.jpg438198064_10102250874172310_509100179774673742_n.jpg440588988_10102250874137380_7836941348068996069_n.jpg438264579_10102250873982690_1138626543884949328_n.jpg
 
Taz575 said:
After the first weld set after using by buddies Coal Iron 12 ton at his place.
Click to expand...
That Coal Iron press works pretty darn good for a 9 ton press doesn't it? Assuming it's still got the stock 3" cylinder installed? I upgraded my Coal Iron press to a 4" cylinder so I could get an honest 12 ton from it.
 
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