Ya sure that knife is big enough?Finished this up just in time. My Son's 16th bday party is this weekend. Hopefully the case gets here in time. Only sliced myself once on this one!
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Beautiful work, how's it progressing?Gonna try and get this one done before the hammer-in this weekend...need something to show off!ha it's a Lanny clip in cpm154 w some crosscut zebra wood covers...think I'm gonna file work the liners, pinch and flute the bolsters
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Just got it hammered together at 3am last night and put 2nd coat of oil on it this morning! I'll post a finished pic in my thread in the knife pictures section this afternoon! Check it out!!Beautiful work, how's it progressing?
If you need any guidance as far as stick welding goes, just ask! I've been stick welding for a lil bit.Got my forge done! Also picked up a YesWelder TIG 205DS and have been trying to learn stick welding with it until I get an argon tank to go to TIG. I got to try my buddies MIG welder and did pretty well once I got an idea of how it worked. I am doing OK with stick, but having trouble starting the weld without sticking the electrode to the metal.
Crank the heatI used Forber 3/32" 7018, tried 80-100 amps, sticks bad every time and its hard to lift away to start the arc. I am going to try it on 220v tonight and see how it goes.
Gotcha. If you're running on 120V, I suggest bumping the amperage up a bit higher and see if that works (maybe 110A?). If that doesn't work, forget about 7018 on 120V altogether. 110A is a LOT for a 120V circuit. Get some 3/32 6013 and try that.I used Forber 3/32" 7018, tried 80-100 amps, sticks bad every time and its hard to lift away to start the arc. I am going to try it on 220v tonight and see how it goes.
The porosity could be caused by a few different things. Make sure you're tungsten is clean, check your CFH on the flow meter, and it can't hurt to give your parts and the filler rod a wipe down with acetone and a clean rag. No matter what welding process, it's always best practice to remove any mill scale. TIG is more picky than stick when it comes to cleanliness.240v made a huge difference! 7018 3/32 on 1/4" steel. Not perfect, but I had a much easier time starting the bead. The rod burned down quicker, so I had to get used to that. Tried the Forney and another brand electrode.
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Tig beads on 1/4" plate with no filler rod:
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More tig with some 3/32 filler rod
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With the filler rod, I had more porosity at the start, but the plate was heating up quick, and the arc was atarting further away. I tried to flood the area with gas first and then get the arc started. Went up to 150amp with the Tig. Not every weld was perfect, but I am better at reading the puddle and arc length
Instead of having to open the case up to cool the electronics down, might I suggest adding a 120V cooling fan (like this: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-...ywords=120v+cooling+fan&qid=1656904307&sr=8-4 )Got my kiln hooked up to the PID and did some auto tuning! View attachment 81163
Its nice to open the tool box to let the heat sink cool off a bit. It was warm, but not burning skin warm. I need to mount it better inside the tool box.
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It seems to overshoot by about 8 degrees and then it comes back down and holds nicely. Held at 1500, then up to 1600 and held for a while and them put it at 1800 and it got up to 1715! The Pyrometer dial on the PID seemed to be fairly accurate compared to the thermocouple too, which I was surprised at!
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This is how I have my PID wired up for 110V:
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I emailed EvenHeat but never heard back. I see they have 240V coils available for the overseas market and am debating going to those instead of the 110V. I want to get an extra set of coils since I don't know how much use is on these. If I get the 240V coils, does anyone know if it would be a straight plug and play swap and change out the internal kiln wiring and PID wiring or would there be more? I am not sure if the rheostat knob would need to be changed? I may call EvenHeat on one of my days off and see if I can get someone on the phone.