I'm sure you've been asked before about your temper lines, which always look great. Torch hardening? Just trying to figure out how you do that?
Actually I haven't...you can get "hardening lines" by heating the blade in a kiln and quenching with a regulator plate but you
wouldn't get the really cool, distinctive hardening line(I can easily see the hardening before
you etch it) so to get the really sharp hardening line you need to heat up only the edge and quench the whole blade, what ends up happening is that the part that is hot enough will harden but everything else will
practically anneal, and it makes the really cool hardening line and depending on how you use a knife the soft spine can be favorable (this point is disputed) so to heat up just the edge you could use a AO torch if you
have one and that would work very well and I have used that but I don't have one and there really expensive so I designed a little "one brick forge" that does what I want. I'm only familiar with 52100 and 1095 but I'm
almost positive it would work with most any carbon steel and I really want to see what this will do to something like 440C. I didn't learn this completely on my own another maker was very kind in share this info. when
your working with thicker stock you will also get a transition zone in the steel/etch. I etch in about 2:1 ratio water to FC for about an hour then a light buff.
I to would like to know Daniel?
Also curious as to why my hardened area on the knife I just did is dark and yours is the opposite Daniel shinny?
In my head the hardened steel would not etch as much as the softer steel.....but it dosnt seem that way...just curious if anyone can answer it.
With the dark hardened section, did you try buffing it? My hardend sections look a little darder but the buff shows it's true color.
If anyone would like more info or help I'd be happy to answer questions(as best I can) through email or somthing.
DR...