What's going on in your shop?

GHEzell

Well-Known Member
2 in 1080, 416 and jigged bone, cowboy style...
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Thanks for looking,
Chris
Very cool little knives, and I love that sheath design. Looks like it would be easy to flip for left-handers.
 

CAJones

Well-Known Member
Very cool little knives, and I love that sheath design. Looks like it would be easy to flip for left-handers.

That is one of the things I love about that design. It is fully reversible and can be worn anywhere on the belt at least until it is broke in and takes a set to wear you are wearing it. On both of these you can see the basketweave on the "front" but on the back I did do a border stamp with my maker stamp in the center. It will look finished product no matter how it is worn.

Chris
 

Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
I finished my quench tank the other day and also picked up this old buffet range for $2 at a sale...works great it was still in the box, love sales.

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I gave it a test run after work and tried my hand at a hamon or quench line...not sure what you call it. This was some 1084 steel(which I know is not know for a lot of activity). the picture is it Clayed up, quenched and the after I knocked off the satinite and washed it. I can't wait to see what I will get once I clean it up.....what do you think?
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Self Made Knives

Well-Known Member
Hey Justin, you might need to keep about a 4' piece of that pipe. You never know, you might be on a TV show someday and have to quench a sword at your "home forge". :biggrin:
 

Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
Ok so I couldn't wait so I hand sanded it to 400 grit after work and gave it a quick etch.... Am I on the right track? It looks cool....I think but want the experts opinion and what grit I need to take it to. I still have to grind the bevels obviously bit just trying to feel it out. I'm going to try and finish it before the hammer in to bring but who knows life and work have been crazy. Now I need to go mow the yard..

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BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
Getting some Damascus billets and cans ready for the hammer in...
 

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Daniel Rohde

Well-Known Member
Sweet stuff guys!


Just made these over the weekend!! I made this grinder to be mainly a handle wok grinder and I have a small wheel attachment on it so far.
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DR....
 

JawJacker

Well-Known Member
I finished my quench tank the other day and also picked up this old buffet range for $2 at a sale...works great it was still in the box, love sales.

0deb293da7095e2e8262b9e78464b8ca.jpg


I gave it a test run after work and tried my hand at a hamon or quench line...not sure what you call it. This was some 1084 steel(which I know is not know for a lot of activity). the picture is it Clayed up, quenched and the after I knocked off the satinite and washed it. I can't wait to see what I will get once I clean it up.....what do you think?
bf7e53245dd66bd2cbf8afd6d4d37f4d.jpg
I like the QT.-- I use a huge crock pot works awesome
 

aelgin

Well-Known Member
Just finishing up sheaths for a couple basic drop point hunters for some friends.

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Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
I to would like to know Daniel?

Also curious as to why my hardened area on the knife I just did is dark and yours is the opposite Daniel shinny?

In my head the hardened steel would not etch as much as the softer steel.....but it dosnt seem that way...just curious if anyone can answer it.
 

Daniel Rohde

Well-Known Member
I'm sure you've been asked before about your temper lines, which always look great. Torch hardening? Just trying to figure out how you do that?

Actually I haven't...you can get "hardening lines" by heating the blade in a kiln and quenching with a regulator plate but you wouldn't get the really cool, distinctive hardening line(I can easily see the hardening before

you etch it) so to get the really sharp hardening line you need to heat up only the edge and quench the whole blade, what ends up happening is that the part that is hot enough will harden but everything else will

practically anneal, and it makes the really cool hardening line and depending on how you use a knife the soft spine can be favorable (this point is disputed) so to heat up just the edge you could use a AO torch if you

have one and that would work very well and I have used that but I don't have one and there really expensive so I designed a little "one brick forge" that does what I want. I'm only familiar with 52100 and 1095 but I'm

almost positive it would work with most any carbon steel and I really want to see what this will do to something like 440C. I didn't learn this completely on my own another maker was very kind in share this info. when

your working with thicker stock you will also get a transition zone in the steel/etch. I etch in about 2:1 ratio water to FC for about an hour then a light buff.

I to would like to know Daniel?

Also curious as to why my hardened area on the knife I just did is dark and yours is the opposite Daniel shinny?

In my head the hardened steel would not etch as much as the softer steel.....but it dosnt seem that way...just curious if anyone can answer it.

With the dark hardened section, did you try buffing it? My hardend sections look a little darder but the buff shows it's true color.

If anyone would like more info or help I'd be happy to answer questions(as best I can) through email or somthing.

DR...
 
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