What's going on in your shop?

Frank Niro said:
Well, here I am again without pictures. I sure do on the other hand enjoy being "in" with the crowd by contributing something. I today finished another double bladed liner lock with double stippled titanium bolsters and moose bone for the scales. They sure do look like ivory. I hope "the man" will not be disappointed some how thinking the scales should look different than they do. I used CPMS110V for both blades one being a clip and the other shaped much like some of the old time European gutting blades. The back bars are polished titanium while the three liners are titanium with jewelling on the inside and are anodized blue.
Frank
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Frank, I have found that posting pictures here is way easier using my phone. I don't know if you use a smart phone or not, but if you do, there is an app called Tap-a-talk which is super simple to use. Knife Dogs Forum on Tapatalk is a joy to use. Posting pictures is as easy as tapping a button and selecting a picture that you have on your phone. This is super handy because I do most of my shop pictures using my phone's camera anyway.
 
Daniel Rohde said:
^^ that's a beast!!
I finally got some damascus to work!!!! I don't much care about the performance of this damascus(If I want performance 52100 is the way to go for me) I'm just making to try and to enjoy it's own unique beauty.
This billet is made from 1084 and 15n20 it is currently a 12 layer billet but I hope to get it up to a 200+ layer(I can now understand why guys love having a hydraulic press!!! hammering is hard!)
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What do you think? how many of you have tried making damascus?

For some reason I cannot see the photo of the billet, so this comment may not apply, but a starting billet of only 12 layers is going to take some time to get to 200+. (especially without a press or power hammer) I usually start with twice that in the starting billet. If you do a cut & stack of 3 pieces or more, you will get there in 3 cycles though, so give it a go. What type of pattern are you considering?
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Well, people I know you all will help. I'm absolutely lost on all this computer stuff. If I have more than one picture to send, I must use separate emails for each. I will have to see if I can get some help from one of my local knife friends.
I have a huge bunch of stuff coming up. We are moving and the shop is so small that two flies might fly into each other if they decided to move at the same time. Still, I hope to continue in the making and possibly even be able to put in another building. I enjoy all of this making thing so very much.
Frank
 
This knife has set on the shelf for about a year since I got it back from Darrin who heat treated it for me.
I wanted a logo for my knife making so I drew it up and Chris Taylor hooked me up with a guy that does them and he cleaned it all up and formated it for me to use in various applications, so as payment I finished this knife for him.

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For no cost and no labor you could use a drill bit with the diameter as the width of your stock and use the tip to scribe center on a flat surface.
 
John Wilson said:
That scribe is exactly what I was looking for when I needed a scribe. I could not find anything like that for sale, and a hundred bucks later I ended up with a granite surface block and a height gauge with carbide bit... Now I feel stupid, and just a tad lazy.
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For no cost or no labor try this.
Use a drill bit with the same diameter as the width of your stock and scribe with the tip on a flat surface. Works for me. KISS principle.
 
Here's one I worked on tonight. I actually made a wood prototype about a year ago when I was still very new. Heck, guess I'm still very new! Forged in Fire is making me want to make a bigger blade or chopper. Anyway, after looking at the wood model for a while, decided the blade was a little fat. The wood model made me think the swell in the grip was a little fat too, so I smoothed that out a little. Think I'm pretty happy with the profile now. Here's a pic and 1 minute video clip of progress so far.
[video=youtube_share;2_tSkTKU48I]https://youtu.be/2_tSkTKU48I[/video]
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A friend wanted three matching knives for him and gifts to his two sons. The handles are black cherry. The tree came from his family home where he grew up and a storm knocked down the tree. He had boards cut from it which he's stored for a number of years.

I wasn't sure about how well the wood would do, I've never used cherry before. But it was nice to grind and it sanded very well.

Not much figure, but the wood is special to the client and that's what matters.

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Not knife related but I needed a new peavey and they cost too much. The specs are 5160 hook 4140 pike and maple handle. I know its not a knife but the hook and pike are sharp :)
 
Garry said:
They look good John, the red liners really add something to the cherry
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Thank you Garry. The wood was fairly unremarkable on its own, so I used red liners for some visual appeal. The red was a play on "cherry". The customer wanted the wood natural which is why I didn't stain it.


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Had a break in the heat wave so I fixed this lil Camillus old rotten handle. Thanks to a wip and the tips of drilling the old pin out.
 
6in Chef

CPM154 with Curly Koa scales.

I didn't think there'd be much interest in a 6 in chef. I made one for my wife at her request and when I posted it on Facebook I immediately got orders for two more. A lot of home cooks like this six inch model.

I rounded the heel just enough to eliminate the sharp point on a Nakiri I did and people really liked that. I think I'm going to make that standard on knives I make for home cooks.

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Side note. I was putting rivets in the open side of the blade cover before. This time I left it alone to see how well it would work. I have to say- it works great and it's able to be cleaned or dried. I wouldn't do this for a sheath, but all of my kitchen knife blade covers will be done like this going forward.


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