New Commission Knife in the Works

The radius shouldn’t be visible or interfere with setting the guard. The slot is measured from the top of the radius on the top and bottom of radius on the bottom.
 
Bob Dozier has a video on YouTube where he solders a bolt onto a hidden tang knife. It looks like he cut a slot in the bolt that fit over the tang. Either way should work fine.
 
Been doing a lot of work on this project when time permits. I got the guard soldered on, the handle drilled out, the threaded rod soldered in, and a piece of nickel silver drilled and tapped for the pommel.

I need to get everything roughed out and fit up perfectly before I glue the handle on and tighten down the pommel.

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This one is closing in on being a knife.

I'd like some opinions from the good folks on here.

Should I leave the pommel as is or grind off that second piece I added on as well as the white spacers and just round the single piece up?

I'm not sure I like it...

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chrisstaniar said:
I'm interested to see the soldering on the fronts of the guard. A challenge I had was getting the solder to blend well enough between the guard and the blade. It's a tough spot to sand.

It definitely looks better without the bump on the pommel.
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Cleanup is a real pain on soldered guards. Did you try a resist on the blade before you soldered it? I use regular graphite pencil and just draw around the guard and maybe a 1/4 inch or so onto the blade and that helps a lot. Mild steel chisels afterwards to clean it off so I don’t scratch the blade.
 
Edwardshandmadeknives said:
Cleanup is a real pain on soldered guards. Did you try a resist on the blade before you soldered it? I use regular graphite pencil and just draw around the guard and maybe a 1/4 inch or so onto the blade and that helps a lot. Mild steel chisels afterwards to clean it off so I don’t scratch the blade.
Click to expand...

I believe the issue I was having was that the edges of the solder kept peeling away so after I sanded there would be a small void. I'm gonna change the process and use shoulders rather than soldering to avoid the guard gaps and sanding. Just like Bühlmann above, I have several hidden tangs on the bench waiting for me. Wanna get as much info to avoid messing up.
 
One thing I see a LOT of people do when they fit handles up is illustrated in this drawing. If people have a radius leading into the guard, many times the handle material has a radius “feathering out” onto the guard material. That’s the top two drawings. I have noticed that the handle material tends to chip off where I have “break point” labeled on my drawing. The handle material tapers to nothing, so even if it is epoxied together, it damages, wears, and breaks easily. I make mine now like the lower illustration. The handle material stays perpendicular to the metal guard, and is much less likely to break. I think it looks nicer too.
 

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Edwardshandmadeknives said:
One thing I see a LOT of people do when they fit handles up is illustrated in this drawing. If people have a radius leading into the guard, many times the handle material has a radius “feathering out” onto the guard material. That’s the top two drawings. I have noticed that the handle material tends to chip off where I have “break point” labeled on my drawing. The handle material tapers to nothing, so even if it is epoxied together, it damages, wears, and breaks easily. I make mine now like the lower illustration. The handle material stays perpendicular to the metal guard, and is much less likely to break. I think it looks nicer too.
Click to expand...

Very nice example for my future guard projects. This is my first.
 
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