Frank Niro
KNIFE MAKER
Well, I gave the windex a try with 280 grit Rynowet. I was very disapointed and went back to the Mobil 1 and the other stuff which I already gave the name for but not this time. Frank
Mobile 1
- Thread starter Frank Niro
- Start date
ArtinNC
Well-Known Member
I agree.
Well, we took it to 1000 today and decided to stop for the day.
Will pick it back up tomorrow and go on up to 2500.
Trying a variety of common options.
Straight Windex, diluted Windex, plain ole tap water, Simple Green mixed with water.
Tap Magic cutting fluid, Mobil 1 (5W-30), Red Line (5W-30), WD40, 3-in-1 oil, lightweight mineral oil.
I suspect the "best" agent is gonna depend on the desired finish and the abrasive involved. As usual, what you're trying to achieve in conjunction with what you have available to use.
We're using cheap SiC wet/dry for the whole process because this is a learning process for my daughter, and I want her to learn the value of quality abrasives.
So far, the fastest results with the paper we're using, even up to 1000 grit, have been with plain ole water. No surprise to me based on previous experience.
Tomorrow we'll go 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500.
Based on previous experience, I suspect once we get to 1500 and above, the various oil products will really start to come into their own, and I'll be more able to note differences and form an opinion.
One thing is for sure- this gives me every opportunity to be very objective in forming an opinion on what provides the quickest way to get to the end goal.
Cora is already eyeballing both the belt grinder and buffing machine, asking when she's gonna be big enough to use them instead.:58:
Rob
Will pick it back up tomorrow and go on up to 2500.
Trying a variety of common options.
Straight Windex, diluted Windex, plain ole tap water, Simple Green mixed with water.
Tap Magic cutting fluid, Mobil 1 (5W-30), Red Line (5W-30), WD40, 3-in-1 oil, lightweight mineral oil.
I suspect the "best" agent is gonna depend on the desired finish and the abrasive involved. As usual, what you're trying to achieve in conjunction with what you have available to use.
We're using cheap SiC wet/dry for the whole process because this is a learning process for my daughter, and I want her to learn the value of quality abrasives.
So far, the fastest results with the paper we're using, even up to 1000 grit, have been with plain ole water. No surprise to me based on previous experience.
Tomorrow we'll go 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500.
Based on previous experience, I suspect once we get to 1500 and above, the various oil products will really start to come into their own, and I'll be more able to note differences and form an opinion.
One thing is for sure- this gives me every opportunity to be very objective in forming an opinion on what provides the quickest way to get to the end goal.
Cora is already eyeballing both the belt grinder and buffing machine, asking when she's gonna be big enough to use them instead.:58:
Rob
Frank Niro
KNIFE MAKER
That's a tough one to answer, but, I would suspect the vicosity a nd a few other oil prop[erties would be near the same since it's a synthetic. Good results have got to mean that's the way to go. I truly believe this Rynowet Red Line sandpaper has a lot to do with getting the reults as well. I'm trying another brand of sandpaper made in Switzerland. It seems much the same as the Rynowet but because they have a heavier paper backing it may end up lasting longer. I will certainly read the name and get it up once I use it a bit more. ,
Rob. I'm very interested in what your daughter find on her finishing work!!!! I will look forward to reading what you and her find. Frank.
Rob. I'm very interested in what your daughter find on her finishing work!!!! I will look forward to reading what you and her find. Frank.
Ricky Finch
Well-Known Member
I used Cool Tool II for along time, till it was hard to get local. I'm now using Mobile 1 and it seems to do a better job.
Rick
Rick
Mark Redmon
Well-Known Member
I don't think I've chimed in on this yet... at least not in this thread. When I first read Franks suggestion a few years back about M1, I believe a lot of the discussion was aimed at reducing the "fish-hooks" and swirls that drive must of us nuts when hand sanding. Of course, if there was anything to reduce frustration while making knives, I had to at least try it. I do believe that there was some reduction in the swirls, but not to the extent I had hoped. I was, however, impressed by the quality of the cut and increased longevity I seemed to be getting from my paper. I have used it on every knife I have made since. While we can all speculate on what is happening on the microscopic level, the results are obvious with the naked eye. I do intend to purchase some rhyno-wet paper soon, as I have generally been using Klingspor. I like it (especially for the price) but I'm always open to try different products. One thing I've found for a pretty nice finish is doing the whole hand sanding ritual up to about 600 with the mobile-1, and then taking the blade to the buffer with coarse wheels and black compound, carefully buffing in the same direction as the sanding strokes for a few seconds. The only real problem with that method is that you probably won't be able to recreate it if you scratch up the blade after the handle is on. The buffer can't get to the area where the guard or bolsters are, so it's back to careful, long strokes with paper...