makers mark poll

Which logo seems best? two votes max.


  • Total voters
    23
  • Poll closed .
I rather liked the squiggles on style #3. Kinda sorta reminds one of mountains on the horizon. Do agree that taking "Made in" off the second line makes it cleaner.
 
Ted, I like #1. I like the simplicity but I'm biased due to my etching difficulties. I just changed to a stamp which presents its own issues.
Frank...speaking of simplicity...your website is beautiful! Nice job! That is similar to what I am having my son build.
 
I rather liked the squiggles on style #3. Kinda sorta reminds one of mountains on the horizon. Do agree that taking "Made in" off the second line makes it cleaner.
Thanks. We did not originally intend it to look like mountains. Then realized it did and even discussed a "peak" going over the H and working jags down toward the right. The line through Montana then represents the prairie.
 
Ted, what did you use to print with - laser or inkjet? My concern about printing direct to stencil material is washing the laser toner (or inkjet ink) off. While the toner/ink would keep the emulsion from water soluble under the pattern, and that's all it needs. You can see in the left side of the "H" where there is still emulsion that's not clearly washed off, and in the "K" and "E" of "knife" it looks like part of the emulsion is washed away in part of the letters. Also the "e" in "Hauser" has the hole in the e looking like most of the emulsion is washed away - it should be dark red like rest of template. As long as there's enough emulsion to prevent etchant from leaking thru it'll be fine. As far as the 110 lines - if the threads in the fabric allows etchant to soak thru good, they most likely will not show up in the etch.

It will be interesting to see the etch once your power supply gets there. Got a 12vdc battery? Try that {g}

Ken H>
 
Ted, what did you use to print with - laser or inkjet? My concern about printing direct to stencil material is washing the laser toner (or inkjet ink) off. While the toner/ink would keep the emulsion from water soluble under the pattern, and that's all it needs. You can see in the left side of the "H" where there is still emulsion that's not clearly washed off, and in the "K" and "E" of "knife" it looks like part of the emulsion is washed away in part of the letters. Also the "e" in "Hauser" has the hole in the e looking like most of the emulsion is washed away - it should be dark red like rest of template. As long as there's enough emulsion to prevent etchant from leaking thru it'll be fine. As far as the 110 lines - if the threads in the fabric allows etchant to soak thru good, they most likely will not show up in the etch.

It will be interesting to see the etch once your power supply gets there. Got a 12vdc battery? Try that {g}

Ken H>
I had the stencil touching the light bulb...and didn't realize it for about 30 seconds....Like I say...what i did was crude but I know it can be fine tuned. The inkjet print was done in best mode and was flawless looking...much finer than the stencil resolution. The whole thing needs to be fiddled with...the results i got with very little effort gives me a good sense that It will be easy to tune the process.
 
Ted, since the inkjet ink will wash off, then printing direct to the stencil material is a great idea! I don't think a laser printer would work so good - the heat from laser would be too much for the emulsion, and the toner wouldn't wash off after exposure. As Kevin says "I want to see it on a blade!"

Ken
 
Ted, since the inkjet ink will wash off, then printing direct to the stencil material is a great idea! I don't think a laser printer would work so good - the heat from laser would be too much for the emulsion, and the toner wouldn't wash off after exposure. As Kevin says "I want to see it on a blade!"

Ken

My etcher didn't show up today...so I have to do real work till tomorrow....lol.

I may try a new stencil and be a bit more careful....
 
My etcher did not come in so I did this instead....laura business card.jpgI don't know why my scanner works so lousy....these turned out lush. I decided to use all the cad work to make cards so that the continuity is good.(same as the makers mark) I'll have one of the boys take a pic...anyway I got a lot of knife projects done today....
 
Ted, what CAD program do you use for the cad work? I use Draftsight a good bit, but am starting to look at CamBam for CNC work.
 
My etcher did not come in so I did this instead....View attachment 62119I don't know why my scanner works so lousy....these turned out lush. I decided to use all the cad work to make cards so that the continuity is good.(same as the makers mark) I'll have one of the boys take a pic...anyway I got a lot of knife projects done today....
It’s pretty clear now who’s the boss of the Hauser operation. Lol.
 
Ted, what CAD program do you use for the cad work? I use Draftsight a good bit, but am starting to look at CamBam for CNC work.

I use Rhinoceros 3d for surfaces and anything complex, SpaceClaim for fixture design and most 2 1/2 D stuff (though it will surface fine I'm more used to Rhino) I use Mecsoft Rhino Cam Pro for cam software...it runs inside the Rhino UI and let's you use all the powerful Rhino tools for Camming. These three are all I need...have been using them for about 15 years now.
 
Thanks for the info Ted - those are all new programs to me. Draftsight is good for me because I used AutoCAD for many years in engineering, AND perhaps most important, Draftsight is FREE for hobby users. BUT - it not for CNC work. It does save as dxf files, but those have to be imported to another program to generate gcode.
 
Rhino was originally developed as an add-on for Auto Cad...then became stand alone. It would be an easy learning curve for any A-cad user.
 
Etcher unit showed up today....grubby...used...and not working.:mad:

Well that stinks Ted!! You could use a Battery charger? Won't be able to use it to mark but you could use it to etch and try out your stencil?
 
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