>I am referring to these<
Imagine the vertical disc going in a circle. If you work on one side of the disc, it is going down. (the other side is going up). Of you are grinding a blade on one side, no problem. Nice even pressure on the blade. If your blade goes past the center, the side going up now comes in play and the "pressure" to hold the blade steady suddenly doubles. This causes the blade to unexpectedly twist. Not good when you want a nice finish.
The beveled disc has a 1degree taper from center to edge. When using this disc if the blade goes past center it has a 2degree gap (1degree taper on "each side" adds up to 2degrees) and the blade never touches the other side. The result is nice even pressure even if you go past the center.
What many people picture is the disc is highly beveled. It isn't. 1degree is almost invisible. I have to check them very closely side by side and then I mark them. The other thing to get your head around is gluing the abrasive to the disc. The image you get is the paper puckers and has wrinkles as it conforms to the concave surface. It doesn't. The 1degree taper is invisible to the abrasive disc. It bonds just fine with no puckers or wrinkles.
Finally, some ask about the concave surface creating a hollow grind and it is not dead flat. That is true. It creates a hollow that has a .0005" hollow over a 2" blade. It's just not a factor. You can't hand grind to with in .001" much less a .0005" tolerance.
Making a disc grinder is very easy. I'd HIGHLY recommend one.
Here is mine:
I made the adjustable tool arm. If you look close you will see I have made the tool table reversible. The angled top you see in there is for making dovetails. I flip the tool rest over for a flat table.
It is a 3/4hp 1150RPM 3phase frequency motor. It uses a Teco 100 VFD that converts 220v single phase to 3phase to run the motor. VFD's are rated by horsepower. Rule of thumb is to use a VFD twice as large as the HP motor you are running. It's not required but you will shorten the life of you VFD if you don't.