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Look at it this way, you probably won't need to get it up to 2000° very often unless you use high alloy steel and , if you do use high alloy steel, then you won't be able to work without it. Anyway, enjoy the heck out of it. Doug

Outstanding, especially for your first "serious" attempts. The stitching is especially even and the stamping nice and straight. I don't know if you sew by hand or by machine but if it is by hand a stitching pony is very handy. Doug

Chris, you're going to love it. Never too much heat control. Doug

Those are a great collection of puukkos, Guns. I really like the one with Scandinavian wrap around sheath. Does the sheath have a wooden core? Doug

Looks nice. Just be aware that if that is North American Osage Orange that those scales will oxidize out to a deep russet brown. I don't know about Argentinian Osage Orange but I think that in may too to a degree. Doug

What super sexy specs would those be? I've only done two knives with bainite. The other one I recall only rises to being a knife shaped object. It bends easily but without any cracking. That said, bainite is pretty much considered the red headed step child of the steel structures. Go for it...

First of all go to ASM International and look up the TTT diagram for the steel that you want to try and get an idea of where it falls into the bainite region. My recollection is that, due to the limit of my oil's flash point, I had to quench at 450° for two hours to get full conversion to...

I tried it with quenching in hot oil (I was out of my mind). Low temperature molten salts would be a lot safer. The steel was 52100 and it held up well in the chopping test and slicing fibrous rope. When I tried to bend it to 90° the blade creaked and popped up to when it broke just a little...

You could try getting a high speed quenching oil, such as Parks 50, which will run you about $225-$250 for a five gallon can, or if that's too rich for you right now you could always try very warm brine solution. Stick the blade in the quench tank or about eight to ten seconds while moving it...

The bottom line is that there are simpler steels that are more forgiving in the austenizing department, such as the `10XX steels, but that said, there is no such thing as too much temperature control for heat treating a blade. Doug

Way too cool!o_O I take from what you said that you first made the crushed W pattern and then overlaid it with a raindrop pattern. Doug

I've only placed one order with AKS and the shipping was prompt. Doug

The computer gremlins are at work again. All I get is the page is not working. Too bad. Doug

I would go with a simple steel like 1075, 1080, or 1084 if he wants a working blade. Like Chris said, if he wants it to be a wall hanger you could use a stainless steel or damascus if he wants something showy. Doug

I made a knife with a Osage Orange handle, the North American species, and it oxidized to a deep russet brown. A very attractive wood. Just coated with boiled linseed oil. Doug

I concur with the suggestion that you get yourself some Parks 50. Having used peanut oil I feel that it is iffy for simple steels like 1095 and 1075, especially with lower manganese levels. I'm looking at the same problem with shifting over to 8670. Parks 50 can be had at USA Knifemakers. Doug

It will be interesting to see your work. Welcome to the madness and let us know if we can help. Doug

It's one of the things that I don't like about knife shows. There's always one or two in the show and I end up next to them listening to their garbage for the whole weekend. Doug

I'm sorry to hear that. I wish that he had decided to stick around and not let someone else control him. Doug

Kevin in his heat treating video recommended Houghton International. Just go to their site and look up their fast quenching oil. At least at the time he made the video they also listed data on their quenchants. Doug