WIP Bowie knife

[Dennis Morland]

If you look closely in the last couple of pictures you can see a void right in the seam of the solder. No amount of finish work would make that look good. So, I went backwards and re-soldered the seam. I have it looking much better.

 

[Dennis Morland]

I have learned something is this process. This simple little brass tool is worth its weight in gold. It does not mar the blade or guard and it removes just enough material to assist in getting a decent finish. If you ever solder a guard, make one. It is a time saver.

 

[Johan Nel]

I have learned something is this process. This simple little brass tool is worth its weight in gold. It does not mar the blade or guard and it removes just enough material to assist in getting a decent finish. If you ever solder a guard, make one. It is a time saver.

Dennis, pardon my multiple questions. Do you use it a bit like a chisel to 'peel' away some of the solder?

 

[Dennis Morland]

Dennis, pardon my multiple questions. Do you use it a bit like a chisel to 'peel' away some of the solder?

Ask away. Sharpen it and use it like a paint scraper/chisel. I sharpened it numerous times.

 

[DanF]

Another method to keep solder off the ricasso area is to coat it with pencil lead. Heating the tang area to a higher temp than the ricasso will "pull" more solder away from the ricasso and guard front also.

 

[Dennis Morland]

I needed to think of a good way to clean up the seam. I know Ed M. makes a small sanding stick. I came up with a small sanding block. I used a piece of 3 inch pine. Cut it like this on the grinder.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Then cut some 1/2 inch strips of 240 and 320 grit.

Some adhesive spray-carefully placed.

Looks like this when attached.

 

[Dennis Morland]

My bad-here is the adhesive.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Here is what it looks like all glued up.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Sand like this. Careful.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Works so good and looks great. Winner-winner!!

 

[Dennis Morland]

Change the paper often for a nice clean cut.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Look at that nice clean joint. I am very happy.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Other side. I am now more happy. I get to move on in the build.

 

[Dennis Morland]

These little sanding blocks worked awesome!!!
I would highly suggest to anyone to develop something like these for the hard to reach/sand/clean seams and joints.

 

[Dennis Morland]

On to the next task. Time to prep for epoxy. This geeks me out. I have to drill the pin hole in the elk. If you miss-you cannot fix it very easily. I use my caliper to find the spacing for the hole.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Then measure and mark the elk.

 

[Dennis Morland]

I start with a very small starter hole in my dremel. 3/64 inch bit. I only drill one side of the elk.

 

[Dennis Morland]

At this point I put the knife together and verify the the 3/64 inch hole is in the right spot by using the drill bit as the pin. If you can feel the opposite side of the elk in the hole and the blade does not come out of the slot - then you know the hole is right. I then drill the hole to 3/32 inch hole for the pin size. Works good.

 

[Dennis Morland]

Drill the correct size hole and place the pin.