What's going on in your shop?

Got a little puukko glued up, I had a little piece of 1084 kicking around so I forged out a tang. It’s another 3 piece handle like the previous one, except this time the bolster is 416SS instead of brass, has Mesquite/ then white g10 spacer and a walnut handle. Thanks to @Gene Kimmi for the walnut handle material, you sent that to me so long ago I almost forgot where it came from, Pics tomorrow
 
Finished the little puukko I was working on. Simple is beauty to me. Both of these knives were forged to rough shape from the same piece of 1084 steel, then finish ground. Both have walnut/white g10/mesquite handles. One has a brass bolster and the other has 416 stainless steel. They are not perfect but definitely getting better. Thanks for looking
 

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Finished the little puukko I was working on. Simple is beauty to me. Both of these knives were forged to rough shape from the same piece of 1084 steel, then finish ground. Both have walnut/white g10/mesquite handles. One has a brass bolster and the other has 416 stainless steel. They are not perfect but definitely getting better. Thanks for looking

Good job on these. Your work is steadily improving. If I may make a suggestion- use layout dye on both sides of your blade. Then use a caliper to strike a line on both sides to mark where you want the top of your grind line to be. That will give you a perfect reference on each side so that getting your bevels to match on eqch side isn’t so difficult, because that’s one of the most difficult things to do by eyeball alone.
 
Good job on these. Your work is steadily improving. If I may make a suggestion- use layout dye on both sides of your blade. Then use a caliper to strike a line on both sides to mark where you want the top of your grind line to be. That will give you a perfect reference on each side so that getting your bevels to match on eqch side isn’t so difficult, because that’s one of the most difficult things to do by eyeball alone.
Thank you! I don’t have a clue how I lost my calipers, both pairs have gone missing from my workbench. I haven’t tried scribing a line on the flats but that will be the next step, thank you for that!
 
Not a knife but making some Leather shop/forging aprons! 6-7 ounce utility grade Leather. Nice distressed look to it! Only one pocket up hi so you don't get a pocket full of scale into it. Have some Olive Green web strapping for the harness, fiberglass reinforced hardware, to keep weight down. Trying Copper rivets for first time? Like the way they look! Another few hours work and it should be done? Thinking about selling a couple on my Etsy page to diversify my page a bit not many knife sales. What would be a "fair price" for a nice simple well constructed apron? Some of the ones I've seen are ridiculously priced! IMG_20200508_141151_316.jpg
 
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Not a knife but making some Leather shop/forging aprons! 6-7 ounce utility grade Leather. Nice distressed look to it! Only one pocket up hi so you don't get a pocket full of scale into it. Have some Olive Green web strapping for the harness, fiberglass reinforced hardware, to keep weight down. Trying Copper rivets for first time? Like the way they look! Another few hours work and it should be done? Thinking about selling a couple on my Etsy page to diversify my page a bit not many knife sales. What would be a "fair price" for a nice simple well constructed apron? Some of the ones I've seen are ridiculously priced! View attachment 73235

That is really cool! No idea on price (what the market will bear) other than a good starting point is triple the cost of materials.
 
That is really cool! No idea on price (what the market will bear) other than a good starting point is triple the cost of materials.

The reason I decided to make them was something similar started at $249.00!!! It had a few more pockets and Leather straps. I polled my local forging friends and all except 1 said they would prefer the Nylon straps to conserve weight. They also wanted no pockets except the upper one for a couple Sharpies, Soapstone and an Awl. We shall see.
 
gliden.... Apron looks cool. My suggestion for what is worth is small open pocket mid upper chest. But as I use my as a double to turn bowls the large open pockets people usually have are just a trap for shavings, so a flap would be awesome. Concur on the strap comment.
 
Not a knife but making some Leather shop/forging aprons! 6-7 ounce utility grade Leather. Nice distressed look to it! Only one pocket up hi so you don't get a pocket full of scale into it. Have some Olive Green web strapping for the harness, fiberglass reinforced hardware, to keep weight down. Trying Copper rivets for first time? Like the way they look! Another few hours work and it should be done? Thinking about selling a couple on my Etsy page to diversify my page a bit not many knife sales. What would be a "fair price" for a nice simple well constructed apron? Some of the ones I've seen are ridiculously priced! View attachment 73235
Is the design a standard apron? I mean it doesn't have "legs" that go down to the feet and straps that attach around the legs? I only ask because that's the only type of "forging" apron I've ever known. I designed mine, and had it made by an outfit in Oklahoma a bunch of years ago..... mine is all leather, with two chest pockets, and all metal hardware..... I paid $245 plus shipping..... I'd say roughly a decade ago. I'd say that even if you're sewing part together.....rivet EVERYTHING..... otherwise you will have it coming back for repairs.
I personally wouldn't put any nylon or synthetic on them..... as soon as you do, somebody with buy one, melt a strap, or whatever off, and then be wailing to you about how your apron failed, and/or wanting you to "repair" it. ;)
 
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