Stang Bladeworks
KNIFE MAKER
Thanks. I use a corner rad endmill. It helps for sure. I mill everything soft then heat treat.
What's going on in your shop?
- Thread starter Justin Presson
- Start date
30 years ago I dabbled in chainsaw and traditional carving. Just recently I have decided to get back into carving but more whimsical relief and caricature whittling. Naturally I thought I better make the tools.
Here are some small blades for whittle type knives. This 15n20 in .060” thickness.
I made a small metal basket to hold the blades in the oven.
oil quench. Get the whole thing under the surface or it flares up pretty good. This was basically heat to 1490f, quench, temp 2x at 300. Shooting for 62rc
this is a small handle I turned in black ash. Turning wood is new to me so this stupid little handle is an accomplishment for me
A hidden pin and some 5 minute epoxy and you have a carving knife
I am not making these to sell but FYI there is a market for custom whittling knives.
after I make a bunch of carving knives I will switch to making chisels and gouges.
Here are some small blades for whittle type knives. This 15n20 in .060” thickness.
I made a small metal basket to hold the blades in the oven.
oil quench. Get the whole thing under the surface or it flares up pretty good. This was basically heat to 1490f, quench, temp 2x at 300. Shooting for 62rc
this is a small handle I turned in black ash. Turning wood is new to me so this stupid little handle is an accomplishment for me
A hidden pin and some 5 minute epoxy and you have a carving knife
I am not making these to sell but FYI there is a market for custom whittling knives.
after I make a bunch of carving knives I will switch to making chisels and gouges.
Attachments
Sean Jones
Well-Known Member
Nice!
REK Knives
Well-Known Member
Looking amazing! Are you gonna have storage in some type of loft/attic area? Looks tall enough
opaul
KNIFE MAKER
I used a steep pitch for the roof but opted to go with prefab trusses so minimal storage in the ‘attic’. I went with 10’ studs on two courses of block which gives me about a 12’ ceiling. I’ll have plenty of wall space for tool storage and higher bin storage if needed. I put a shed roof off the back which will be enclosed to house a 850 gallon well fed cistern providing water for the main house.
mike miller
KNIFE MAKER
This last picture showed more of the true size. NICE have fun!
bladegrinder
Well-Known Member
Wow, that's nice! is that being built where you live now or did you get another piece of land?
opaul
KNIFE MAKER
Thank you!
It’s on another piece of property from where we live now. The shop is located about 150’ from the house.
KentuckyFisherman
Well-Known Member
Tell us more about the design of that shop, Opaul. I see you live in North Carolina, so I'm wondering why the steep pitch on the roof. I would expect that in heavy snow areas, but not so much down your way. Having seen your knives and your posts, I'm sure a lot of thought went into the design. Love the idea of a sizable cistern for the house.
Stang Bladeworks
KNIFE MAKER
Just finished this one.
Smallshop
KNIFE MAKER
Really looking forward to playing with this material on Tuesday! Customer wanted a pocket sized chisel pry knife with camo glow in the dark handle (same customer who got the 8 funky handle color knives!). Also did a pin with the epoxy with glow in the dark pigments, too! The black light really makes it pop!
CDHumiston
Well-Known Member
Just finished this Father/Son project.
I cut, shaped, ground and heat treated the blade and my Dad did the handle work.
The blade is approx. 460 layers of 15n20, 5160 and Ni200 heat treated to 59 HRC.
The scales are Jigged Bone and Buffalo Horn inlaid with two 1937 Buffalo Nickels plated in Rose Gold.
I cut, shaped, ground and heat treated the blade and my Dad did the handle work.
The blade is approx. 460 layers of 15n20, 5160 and Ni200 heat treated to 59 HRC.
The scales are Jigged Bone and Buffalo Horn inlaid with two 1937 Buffalo Nickels plated in Rose Gold.
Cut into the burlap/glow in the dark block and there are lots of air holes. I think I will do it with either clamps or my 2 ton press and not max the press out next time. The 6 ton seems to force more of the epoxy out, so it doesn't stay in the more open weave. I have the same issue with carbon fiber, less pressure seems better.
So I decided to try the fabric jelly roll handle I made. Came out nice on a 8" Funayuki in 3/32" Nitro V!
Ground it nice and thin and convexed it. Got to play with the new Sunmax structured belts from Pops in 45, 30, 16, 5 micron and it gives a very nice shiny satin belt finish! They are softer and thinner and more flexible than the Trizact Gators I usually use for blade finishing. I used them on my F3 felt platen, looking forward on trying them on my glass platen too!
So I decided to try the fabric jelly roll handle I made. Came out nice on a 8" Funayuki in 3/32" Nitro V!
Ground it nice and thin and convexed it. Got to play with the new Sunmax structured belts from Pops in 45, 30, 16, 5 micron and it gives a very nice shiny satin belt finish! They are softer and thinner and more flexible than the Trizact Gators I usually use for blade finishing. I used them on my F3 felt platen, looking forward on trying them on my glass platen too!
Jesse Latham
Well-Known Member
A vacuum pot would eliminate that. Perhaps use more epoxy and squeegee the excess from each layer as you add them, trying to eliminate air bubbles.