Simple sheath build along

Really enjoying this, Dennis. As a newbie, there is so much to learn. I'm just adding scales to blanks, but I've improved and at the stage where I'm not ashamed to give a knife to family and friends. But what to do for a sheath? There are plenty of cheap, lightweight Chinese sheaths, and there are top-end custom makers, but what's in between?

Store bought sheaths have there place. Learning to make sheaths is not all that difficult. Like knife making, you need to collect the right tools and that initial outlay of cash always hurts/stings. Several makers on KD, experienced makers, choose not to make their own sheaths. Usually, they find a leather guy/gal to make them for them. A good fitting, attractive sheath, helps to sell their knives and they find someone that they trust to provide the sheath for them. Randy Lucius comes to mind. His sheath maker does a great job. I like his/her product. I think John Doyle has someone make sheaths for him. Bruce Bump has someone make his sheaths. I forget his name, but, he is very good. And if you want the Cadillac - buy a Paul Long sheath.
 
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I struggle with stitching. The front side looks good but the back side varies.

Chris - I struggled a bit with this issue. Heck, I still do. I am going to respond to this, as I may end up braiding the edge of this sheath. If I use thread, I will show you how I attempt to overcome the matching up issue. Otherwise, I cut my groove line for the stitching on the front side of the sheath. I do not cut the back side. I then use a diamond shaped pricking iron for setting all the necessary holes. Make sure you are perpendicular on each setting so the holes stay lined up on the back side. After cutting all the holes, I will cut the groove line for the stitching on the back side of the sheath and use the holes as a guide to follow. It beats trying to blindly find the groove line on the back side of the sheath. More often, you miss at least once. I hate that!!
 
I then use a diamond shaped pricking iron for setting all the necessary holes. Make sure you are perpendicular on each setting so the holes stay lined up on the back side.
The pricking iron makes a hole through your leather and welt? Do you drill the holes at all?

Perhaps this would simplify things???
 
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Sorry Chris, I misspoke. I use a diamond hole chisel not a pricking iron. Brain fart! It is a cheap adjustable one from Tandy. I used to drill holes, I switched to a chisel set. It helps me keep better spacing. Also helps to keep everything in line.

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After stitching, I will need to make a decision on whether to stitch the edge or braid the edge. I planned on stitching but I want to braid. This is the welt. I made it thicker for braiding. If I stitch it will get thinner. You just need more space for braiding because the hole is so much bigger than a stitching hole.

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To set the holes, I have three choices with the chisel. Small, medium or large spacing. Unfortunately, small worked out best which means I get more stitches.

Just line it up and hit with a mallet. Make sure it is straight up so the holes are straight.

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Chris Railey - Back side. If I was going to stitch, I would use the groover and just follow the holes. That way, I cannot miss the groove on the back side. I hope that makes some sense for you. Let me know if I need to explain it better.

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A little bit of barge cement, let it get tacky, set it into place, punch the holes through the shield, and start stitching. Easy peasy.

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And we are off. Some time ago I came across a killer deal on close out. I bought thread for $1 a pack. I think I bought 3 each in black, brown and tan. I should have bought them out. Duh!

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All stitched. I cannot sing the praises any louder for the chisel. I used to drill each hole with a 1/16 inch drill bit. I never got the hang of it and always struggled to make the stitches look decent. I got the chisel after a leather buddy suggested it. 10x better in no time. I will never go back.

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