New Commission Knife in the Works

CDHumiston

CDHumiston

Well-Known Member
I'm working on a new commission build for an old friend. He wants a handmade knife similar to his trusty old Case hunting knife.

His old knife is a hidden tang which I have very little experience making, but as usual these custom orders push me to try new things and become a better maker. The knife must also have a guard which I've only done twice.

Just in case though I'm making a hidden tang version and a full tang version. Here are some pictures of Tom's old Case XX and the two blades I'm working on.

That last picture shows an original New Old Stock Case XX blade of a very similar model of Tom's knife. It's obviously the one in the middle...

I'm really hoping to get the hidden tang knife to work out!

321868228_671100351467229_7086291786522193824_n.jpg20230114_144421.jpg20230114_144443.jpg20230108_141007.jpg
 
Have you thought about threading the end of the through tang. You could blind tap the pommel and after it’s screwed down - shape it like the original.
 
opaul said:
Have you thought about threading the end of the through tang. You could blind tap the pommel and after it’s screwed down - shape it like the original.
Click to expand...

I have no idea how to do that. I guess YouTube videos may be in my future...
 
CDHumiston said:
I have no idea how to do that. I guess YouTube videos may be in my future...
Click to expand...
Can you weld at all? I can hobby weld so I would cut a slot in the through tang and weld a piece of all thread or a small bolt to the tang. Then all you have to do is get someone to cut threads in your pommel. I learned how to cut threads from a youtube video. Its a good skill to have and the tap and die set does not cost a lot.
As a work around last choice you could pin the pommel if you can get it to fit up tight and grind the end of the tang even with the back of the pommel. If you use a pin the same color as your pommel it will not stand out. Its not a traditional method but if you can get it tight it should work.
 
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I actually have a very similar task. A friend wants my version of an old Case Apache. He doesn’t care if it’s hidden or full tang, so I was planning on doing full. But I like your idea of doing one of each just for the experience, so I may try that as well. Nothing like doubling the work & stress of screwing up two knives!

I’ve never handled an Apache, but it looks to be very similar to the Buck 105 Pathfinder, which I own & have used on many whitetail over the years.

I think a threaded pommel would be the easiest & cleanest connection.
 
My friend doesn't care about the pommel on the end. Can I just shape the handle in the same manner the pommel on the original is shaped?

I may cut another blade and try the welding and tapping thing, but I'm not sure I need to go that route.
 
CDHumiston said:
My friend doesn't care about the pommel on the end. Can I just shape the handle in the same manner the pommel on the original is shaped?

I may cut another blade and try the welding and tapping thing, but I'm not sure I need to go that route.
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Threading and tapping is not that difficult and as seen in your knife making skills wouldn’t be a challenge. Plus it’s a good skill to acquire.
 
Paul, when you say "small radius" - what size to you suggest? Would an 1/8" milling bit be sufficient?
 
KenH said:
Paul, when you say "small radius" - what size to you suggest? Would an 1/8" milling bit be sufficient?
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I typically use a small round file, but yes any radius that breaks the 90 degree angle should be enough, but a larger radius may have its benefits, Here is a snap shot from L. Thomas knife nerds ... Knife Engineering. https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/04/15/how-stress-risers-lead-to-broken-blades/


Stress concentrations can be in a much smaller area. A common one is a 90° angle in a part.

stress-concentration-sharp-corners.jpg


Image from [1]
 
Chris Railey said:
Can you weld at all? I can hobby weld so I would cut a slot in the through tang and weld a piece of all thread or a small bolt to the tang. Then all you have to do is get someone to cut threads in your pommel. I learned how to cut threads from a youtube video. Its a good skill to have and the tap and die set does not cost a lot.
As a work around last choice you could pin the pommel if you can get it to fit up tight and grind the end of the tang even with the back of the pommel. If you use a pin the same color as your pommel it will not stand out. Its not a traditional method but if you can get it tight it should work.
Click to expand...
In lieu of welding you can solder the threaded screw to the tang. On a few knives I have drilled a hole back from the end of the tang, say 1/2".
Then filed a slot from the end of the tang to intersect the hole. File 'shoulders' off the screw head so the head is the same thickness as the tang. Slip it in the hole and slot and solder it in place. Hope you can picture what I'm saying.
I think Ed used to use some type of pin connection between the threaded rod and the end of the tang. That way it helped to ensure a flush fit up with the end cap/pommel if the threaded bolt and knife handle butt wasn't a perfect 90 degree mate up.
 
opaul said:
In lieu of welding you can solder the threaded screw to the tang. On a few knives I have drilled a hole back from the end of the tang, say 1/2".
Then filed a slot from the end of the tang to intersect the hole. File 'shoulders' off the screw head so the head is the same thickness as the tang. Slip it in the hole and slot and solder it in place. Hope you can picture what I'm saying.
I think Ed used to use some type of pin connection between the threaded rod and the end of the tang. That way it helped to ensure a flush fit up with the end cap/pommel if the threaded bolt and knife handle butt wasn't a perfect 90 degree mate up.
Click to expand...
You sure can solder it. My stupid torch is out of O2 so I do not think of solder much. I have a butt ton of brazing rod too, that should work as well. I guess I should get some O2. Lol
 
I do file the shoulders with a small round jeweler's file. The picture you posted is a great illustration of the idea.

I have a very high-quality soldering iron and a soldering torch. I also have a small Gentec torch that I plan to use to solder the guards on.
The blades are wrapped for heat treat now. I did cut a small channel in case I decide to weld a screw in there.
 
That should work. I have seen people make a "T" shape at the top of the groove so the head of the bolt can fit but I do not think you have enough tang to do that here. As always, there may be a better way I do not know about.
 
Glad I read this thread. I haven't tackled a hidden tang and have several on the bench right now. That radius'ing adds a wrinkle to my plan for hiding the guard gap. My plan was to grind a small shoulder across the "flat" of the blade as well that the guard would slide up against to hide any gaps. I should still be able to do that with a radiused corner. I can also radius the shoulder a little by running my belt over the edge of the platen.

 
chrisstaniar said:
Glad I read this thread. I haven't tackled a hidden tang and have several on the bench right now. That radius'ing adds a wrinkle to my plan for hiding the guard gap. My plan was to grind a small shoulder across the "flat" of the blade as well that the guard would slide up against to hide any gaps. I should still be able to do that with a radiused corner. I can also radius the shoulder a little by running my belt over the edge of the platen.
I think DEMO has done it the way you are describing.

Click to expand...
 
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