my plunges could be better

sethshaun

sethshaun

Active Member
I have trouble getting out the deeper grindmarks from my plunges.

I like to tell myself that I just need to invest in a 2x72 and it will make plunges and bevels easier. Right now I use a 6" bench grinder, angle grinder, 6x6x36 belt/disc grinder, bandsaw, drillpress, dremel and lots and lots of files and sandpaper.
I know what I want to do to get the grind type that I want but its not always that easy with the tools I have. Or am I wrong? Should I keep using what I have or is it really a lot better with a versatile NWG type grinder?
Thanks, any and all advice appreciated. :bud:
 
Here is a place where the right power tools do make a difference. I tried to use a 4X36" belt sander as a grinder and had nothing but problems. There tools are just not set up to do the type of grinds that you have to make with knives. You have two options, buy or build a belt grinder or learn how to do those operations by hand. To do it by hand you are going to need a file guide and some good files. I would suggest mill and pillar files, both single cut, in ******* (the word that was blocked can also denote a person who's parents weren't married to each other or a pattern of sword) and smooth cut teeth. Pillar files have no teeth on the edges. You will also need a hard sanding block with sharp corners to wrap sand paper around and/or oil polishing stones in various grits and, possibly, hardness.

Doug Lester
 
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In my opinion there is a very big difference between a 2x42 and a 2x72 kmg clone. Tracking would be one, then price difference and avalability of various types of belts. That alone converts into huge savings. My biggest problem is my grinder is to fast and would like to get a motor with a VFD so I can control my grinding and sanding of wood better. Save your money and get one. youll never regret it. kellyw
 
IMHO you can do it with the tools you have, but some other tools would make it easier. Since you mention your plunges the first question I have to ask is if you are trueing your wheels, If not , your plunges are going to have a large radius to them. Get a wheel dresser and face your wheels to a square corner. You will need at least 3 wheels, course, medium, and fine. The fine will be a finish of about a 220 belt. They will all have to be the same diameter for every grind. As the wheel is used and trued, it will get smaller. Not a lot, but all 3 wheels will need to be the same. I tried to post a picture of the last knife I ground on stone wheels with the same tools you have. As the number indicates, it was in 1992 and was the 4th knife that year I made. It's an odd knife and tough to grind whatever you're using, but it can be done. You can tell by the small radius that the wheels were getting worn. When you do move to a 2x72, you will be thrilled. If the picture does'nt work, I'll try again.

http://knifedogs.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6819&stc=1&d=1268355571[/IMG]
 

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Seth,

I can't really speak at directly answering your question because I started on a 2x72.

Here is my take though. The answer depends greatly on your desire to make knives and KEEP making knives. I would imagine that you could learn to do a great job with nothing other than the tools you currently have.

If your making a couple knives for fun then the 2x72 may not be worth the investment.

If your like most of us who got started and become addicted to the craft and will continue on in some matter reguarless of it's for hobby or profit then my take is why not get a 2x72 set up. You will eventually and it sounds like you've got the basic tool requirements already so this would be a good next step for you IMHO.

I've got alot on my plate right now time wise but if you wanted to visit some time and test drive a KMG your more than welcome. We would need to plan ahead for a day and time but wanted to extend the offer. Just drop me a PM if your interested.

-Josh
 
Seth, many of us started out with less tools than you have and made many good knives. It was hard work and very time consuming and as you have seen much dedication to finish a knife.

That being said, I just finished building a grinder similar to the NWG and I can hardly believe the difference a grinder made for knife making makes. Every aspect of grinding is much easier. I agree with the rest, if you are planning on making a lot of knives buy or build a good knife grinder.

Larry
 
awesome!

That is what I wanted to hear! I can and will improve with what I already have because I know it can be done (I love that knife above). BUT in the end (as funds allow) I will build a welded NWG-ish type grinder. I wanted to know if it was me or the machine. It is some of both.

I love this forum
2thumbs
 
those lines are what im looking for

dennie said:
IMHO you can do it with the tools you have, but some other tools would make it easier. Since you mention your plunges the first question I have to ask is if you are trueing your wheels, If not , your plunges are going to have a large radius to them. Get a wheel dresser and face your wheels to a square corner. You will need at least 3 wheels, course, medium, and fine. The fine will be a finish of about a 220 belt. They will all have to be the same diameter for every grind. As the wheel is used and trued, it will get smaller. Not a lot, but all 3 wheels will need to be the same. I tried to post a picture of the last knife I ground on stone wheels with the same tools you have. As the number indicates, it was in 1992 and was the 4th knife that year I made. It's an odd knife and tough to grind whatever you're using, but it can be done. You can tell by the small radius that the wheels were getting worn. When you do move to a 2x72, you will be thrilled. If the picture does'nt work, I'll try again.

http://knifedogs.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6819&stc=1&d=1268355571[/IMG]
Click to expand...

I didn't know about the truing of the wheels. I believe That would help me with consistency. I could probably use 6 wheels because I don't have knuckle clearance and have to do one side one the left and the other side on the right. I think I would need to switch 2 at a time. Thanks for the idea. I really like the clean sharp lines on your knife. I always end up covering up my mistakes with judicious hand sanding and I loose definition that way. I would like to avoid that on certain types of knives I think it can look amateurish.....I do like it on some knives where its appropriate.
Do you use the guide on the bench grinder? Sometimes I do better if I take the whole guard off. Maybe that's practicing the wrong technique but I seem to be able to feel it better that way. This is great thanks for the encouragement
 
yeah im hooked

Josh Dabney said:
Seth,

I can't really speak at directly answering your question because I started on a 2x72.

Here is my take though. The answer depends greatly on your desire to make knives and KEEP making knives. I would imagine that you could learn to do a great job with nothing other than the tools you currently have.

If your making a couple knives for fun then the 2x72 may not be worth the investment.

If your like most of us who got started and become addicted to the craft and will continue on in some matter reguarless of it's for hobby or profit then my take is why not get a 2x72 set up. You will eventually and it sounds like you've got the basic tool requirements already so this would be a good next step for you IMHO.

I've got alot on my plate right now time wise but if you wanted to visit some time and test drive a KMG your more than welcome. We would need to plan ahead for a day and time but wanted to extend the offer. Just drop me a PM if your interested.

-Josh
Click to expand...

I may not ever make them for a profit, but ideally it could offset some of the cost. I really want to see how good I can get. My mistakes glare at me but I know what I need to do to improve. I am building a mini press right now so I can make some pattern steel and some of the chunks of steel that I try and shape by hand are very large and this will help draw them out. I think I will get some plans to build a grinder next.
I appreciate your offer. I would love to watch someone grind and compare that to what I am doing. I am busy as well but maybe we can meet up sometime. I am anxiously awaiting the next Hammer-In within driving distance.
 
Seth,

If your plunges are nice and straight, and the only problem is cleaning up the coarser marks from the belt, then I would recommend you get some 1/8' or 3/16" woden dowels and cover them with sandpaper(I like the 3m wetordry) glue it firm in grits from 220 up as far as you need. you can even make slight adjustments with the coarser grits. You will soon find that it will take you longer to make up the sanding sticks than it does to clean up your plunges. Its still worth it though.
 
Before getting the KMG and even now I use an emery board. Cut the end square, cut a 8" piece of the desired sandpaper about 1/2" wide. Wrap it around the very end of the emery board. You now have sandpaper with a curve to match the bevel and an edge at the top for getting right in the corner. I use a vice grip to hold the blade to a piece of wood 2" X 1" X 10" covered with leather that I hold in the vise. Make sure the point of the blade is not sticking out past the end of the wood.
Steve
 
Delbert Ealy said:
Seth,

If your plunges are nice and straight, and the only problem is cleaning up the coarser marks from the belt, then I would recommend you get some 1/8' or 3/16" woden dowels and cover them with sandpaper(I like the 3m wetordry) glue it firm in grits from 220 up as far as you need. you can even make slight adjustments with the coarser grits. You will soon find that it will take you longer to make up the sanding sticks than it does to clean up your plunges. Its still worth it though.
Click to expand...


Sounds like a very simple way to get in the exact spot I want. I should even be able to clean up some of knives that i have finished.
thanks for the good idea!:cool:
 
SVanderkolff said:
Before getting the KMG and even now I use an emery board. Cut the end square, cut a 8" piece of the desired sandpaper about 1/2" wide. Wrap it around the very end of the emery board. You now have sandpaper with a curve to match the bevel and an edge at the top for getting right in the corner. I use a vice grip to hold the blade to a piece of wood 2" X 1" X 10" covered with leather that I hold in the vise. Make sure the point of the blade is not sticking out past the end of the wood.
Steve
Click to expand...

So it sounds like there is no avoiding some hand sanding. I can live with that, especially if I can get a better grinder to boost efficiency.
I thank you Sir!
 
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