Matchlock Axe/Pistol

[Bruce Bump]

I've been looking for a love seat so we can all sit down in the shop.

Sounds like age discrimination to me.
Hope they don't "kick us off the couch" anytime soon.
The floor is a cold and lonely place my friend.

 

[Bruce Bump]

I worked all day on the primer box lid and spring for the lid. The lid is also playing duty as an ash tray although wouldnt really hold an ash in a wind storm. The lid is from 1/8" 1084 steel and the spring is 1075 steel.

 

[cnccutter]

It never ceases to amaze me how much animals look like their owners.

Erik

"We get SO worked up watching these political debates."

 

[Bruce Bump]

It never ceases to amaze me how much animals look like their owners.

Erik

Which one?

 

[cnccutter]

well, they both appear to be drooling so take your pick :biggrin:

Erik

Which one?

 

[Bruce Bump]

well, they both appear to be drooling so take your pick :biggrin:

Erik

OK the good lookin one. Hehee

 

[McClellan Made Blades]

Bruce,
Looking great with the full mock up of the finished piece!
It's my understanding that some Honda Motorcycles can have more USA made parts than a Harley Davidson.

So it could still be all USA made?

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com

Laurence,
I was going to say the same thing, I'm pretty sure most of them are made here, and if they aren't,......we can just live with the misinfo and be happy about it! Rex

 

[Bruce Bump]

The primer box lid spring is tempered at 725 degrees and is a spring temper at 51 rockwell hardness. I thinned it and shaped it to achieve the correct tension for the lid to open smooth yet snappy and close tight too.

I broke a dove tail cutter and had to call Lon to borrow one of his to finish the slot for the front barrel hold down nut. This nut is a genuine Remington part.

 

[ddavelarsen]

I totally dig that barrel hold down installation. And have I mentioned that you have the best tools around? That angled hand piece - and all it's specialized attachments - are just the cat's meow man. I'm definitely going to have to get a Foredom machine sooner than later. I'm making do with a Dremel with a flexible shaft, which works okay for what I do but isn't as powerful or as versatile as your flex shaft machine. I'm also going to have to start shopping around for some of the sanding attachments you use; the (rubber backed?) one you're using on the dovetailed barrel hold down looks really useful. And a drawerful of the stuff! Cool. This beautiful piece is really coming along. I'm going to be sad when it's done, but I bet you won't! I'm looking forward to the "all parts" photo; maybe then I'll figure out how some of this works. Like the lid box spring. What's driving that from inside the gun? Or is the box manually opened and filled? I bet that's the case. Just curious, I know I'll find out if I'm patient enough. I know I always say this, but it needs saying often: Thanks Bruce for the extra time you take from your paying work to do these WIPs. I totally know how much time and effort it takes to do. Thank you.

 

[Bruce Bump]

Thanks Dave
The box lid is manually opened with the left thumb. I decided it would be safer and simpler.
Dont worry I enjoy these Wips more than you do.

 

[ddavelarsen]

That's about what I had figured. I sure dig this, always get excited when I see you've posted progress pics. Are you using a checkering file to do the groves on stuff like the primer box lid? I don't think I have one, but I can think of several uses of one besides what you're doing with it. I may have to look into whatever it is you're using.

 

[Bruce Bump]

Yes it is a checkering file from Brownells. Its an old worn out one and doesn't cut real deep anymore but it does get the grooves started deep enough to finish with a triangle file. I think this is a 20 lines per inch.

 

[ddavelarsen]

Thanks Bruce!

 

[Bruce Bump]

With the side plates, trigger guard, forearm guard, and butt plate in place, I sanded the wood stock flush. The problem is the wood is supposed to be above the metal parts so I sanded the back off about .010" from the plates and about .010" from the forearm and butt plate. I spent all day at this and also sanded them to 2000 grit and buffed with green rouge on a cotton wheel. The buffing will show all the defects and/or scratches so when they show up I go back down in grit to remove the problem areas and re-buff. This kind of work wears out my hands but the finish is so important it cant be cut short. The barrel is also sanded and buffed.

I called Brownells for some suggestions on a hand rubbed finish. The tech told me about this specialty product they recently began carrying. I snapped a picture of it and the instructions. The first coat is cut with mineral spirits so it will soak deep into the pores and stiffen up the wood. I like a hard finish and hope this does as it advertises. I sanded the wood to 600 grit and put the first coat on with a bit of mineral spirits on the rag. It is very thin to begin with so I'm thinking it penetrated very well.

 

[BlueSkyJaunte]

Bruce, that wood is BEAUTIFUL. I would call it the "find" of the year!

I like that barrel retainer setup. When you mentioned a dovetail cutter I was afraid you were talking about installing sights on the barrel!

Not to harp on "Smaug", but I just found that another name for the character was "Trāgu". He was called this by the inhabitants of the city Dale, which Smaug destroyed. Unfortunately a "tragu" is also the name for a certain type of ear piercing.

 

[Frank Hunter]

Bruce, I am at a loss for words with this. The quality of your worksmanship is second to none and there is so much to learn just from the photographs. Very inspiring, I cannot let anything but the best leave my bench after seeing someone delve this far into the art. The rest is off topic...one thing I've spoke of before, I notice the last joint of your thumb is cocking back at a wicked angle when you're hand sanding. The same thing occurs with me in spite of trying to bear down at the tip and it's murdering the joint on my left hand. I'm talking a nearly 90 degree angle. Does this just come with the territory or have you found any work arounds?

 

[ddavelarsen]

Man that gunstock finish really makes the grain pop! I love watching you work Bruce. One question though; why did you lower the metal parts below the surface of the stock? Just curious. When you said that naturally I thought of taking the surfaces down, but you're smart - you took if off the back! LOL! So much to learn. Thanks for your great WIPs. Kindest regards,

 

[Dana Hackney]

WOW, Bruce!!! That wood is even more awesome with that new Brownells stuff. It looks like it's all coming together beautifully.
How much longer before you are ready to send it off to the engraver?

Dana

 

[Bruce Bump]

I need to make a ram rod and a powder flask still. Some of those parts need engraving also. Could be just another week or so. Things are going fast finally.

WOW, Bruce!!! That wood is even more awesome with that new Brownells stuff. It looks like it's all coming together beautifully.
How much longer before you are ready to send it off to the engraver?

Dana

 

[Bruce Bump]

The rest is off topic...one thing I've spoke of before, I notice the last joint of your thumb is cocking back at a wicked angle when you're hand sanding. The same thing occurs with me in spite of trying to bear down at the tip and it's murdering the joint on my left hand. I'm talking a nearly 90 degree angle. Does this just come with the territory or have you found any work arounds?[/QUOTE]

Frank are you saying my wrist pain is from my thumb stance? Maybe I was born with deformed thumbs because this is the only way I can sand by hand. I'm thinking about letting the customer do the hand sanding.