ScoliForge
Member
Looking good. I can't wait to see the finished product.
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
First Framelock WIP
- Thread starter Justin Presson
- Start date
Daniel Rohde
Well-Known Member
This is looking so Cool!
Grussing_Custom_Knives
Well-Known Member
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Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Got some more work done, some of it good some of it not as good...lol
I ground the blade and it kicked my butt! I found it to be the most acquired knife to grind yet...there's no tang to hold on too!
Scribed everything and started with a 60 grit belt on the swedge and then went to 120. Swedge went pretty good.
The blade was all over the place. Same grits and ended with a 220 trying to clean up the plunge and I just had a hot mess. Since my edge thickness was down to about what I wanted I stopped.
This was at 120 which went pretty good
This is after 220 and is all over the place.
I'm just going to hand sand the rest before I screw it up.
Also sand blasted the Titanium handles today. I masked off the areas that would make contact with anything and where the washers will ride. I plugged my pivot hole and stop pon with tape.
Also since I decided to give this to my brother I stole some letters from the wife's scrapbook stuff that are like rubbery and stuck them on the inside of the scales.
Here it is after sandblasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide.
That's it for now, going to try and hand sand the blade tonight after the FAM goes to sleep.
I ground the blade and it kicked my butt! I found it to be the most acquired knife to grind yet...there's no tang to hold on too!
Scribed everything and started with a 60 grit belt on the swedge and then went to 120. Swedge went pretty good.
The blade was all over the place. Same grits and ended with a 220 trying to clean up the plunge and I just had a hot mess. Since my edge thickness was down to about what I wanted I stopped.
This was at 120 which went pretty good
This is after 220 and is all over the place.
I'm just going to hand sand the rest before I screw it up.
Also sand blasted the Titanium handles today. I masked off the areas that would make contact with anything and where the washers will ride. I plugged my pivot hole and stop pon with tape.
Also since I decided to give this to my brother I stole some letters from the wife's scrapbook stuff that are like rubbery and stuck them on the inside of the scales.
Here it is after sandblasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide.
That's it for now, going to try and hand sand the blade tonight after the FAM goes to sleep.
Last edited:
Grussing_Custom_Knives
Well-Known Member
Cool cant wait
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Self Made Knives
Well-Known Member
Grinds don't look bad to me in the pics, I really like the blade shape and design. The scales came out looking great. Are you going to try anodizing?
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Thanks Anthony, I don't know. I don't have the set up to Anodize and have not done enough research for a home jobber. I thought I seen where you could use 9v batteries but not sure if it works very good.
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Thanks Brandant, I have a question since you have some experience. I would probably only do the screws, back spacers and thumb stud. Can you drop all of them in your solution then dip your lead with your Ti wire into that or does your lead have to be in contact with your part? I see a lot on videos you have to hang it from the wire but wasnt sure how you did it with small parts. Also I don't have any ti wire can you use something else?
BrandantR
Well-Known Member
The negative lead needs to be connected to a piece of sacrificial steel (I use a scrap of O1 but any ferrous metal will do) and needs to be suspended in your solution. For the solution I use water with Borax (find in the laundry isle or in your own laundry room). I use enough Borax until the solution is completely saturate, i.e. no more Borax will dissolve. Other things like TSP can be used to make your electrolyte solution, but Borax works just fine for me.
The positive lead needs to be in contact with the part being anodized. It's best to use titanium wire or a titanium clip, but I use a stainless steel clip and don't submerge the clip, dunking the piece being anodized twice from both ends. I hope that makes sense.
You can connect your batteries in series to change the voltage which will vary the color you will get during anodization. Using the batteries, you are limited to the colors you can achieve, but you'll find one or two colors that you like doing it this way. Once you are hooked on anodizing, you will want to get a DC power supply. With the power supply you can dial in the voltage to get the exact color you want.
Here's a good reference website to refer to: http://www.mrtitanium.com/ Hope this helps.
The positive lead needs to be in contact with the part being anodized. It's best to use titanium wire or a titanium clip, but I use a stainless steel clip and don't submerge the clip, dunking the piece being anodized twice from both ends. I hope that makes sense.
You can connect your batteries in series to change the voltage which will vary the color you will get during anodization. Using the batteries, you are limited to the colors you can achieve, but you'll find one or two colors that you like doing it this way. Once you are hooked on anodizing, you will want to get a DC power supply. With the power supply you can dial in the voltage to get the exact color you want.
Here's a good reference website to refer to: http://www.mrtitanium.com/ Hope this helps.
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Got all the hand sanding done, took it all to 400 grit.
Marked my makers mark. I spray the surface with winded and tape the stencil down, I usually use scotch tape but the wife needed the last to wrap up gifts so I used electrical tape. Saturated the phelt pad then dryed it off some so its damp then I use a swiping motion across the stencil with the pad.
Next thing to do is to mask off the areas I don't want to get and acid bath. I'm going for a dark etched tumbled look on the blade. So I raided the wife's nail polish...which all I found was this one bottle of red glitter, my wife hardly ever paints her nails so I was lucky to get this.
I use PCB etchant from radio shack.
Into the jar, this is a 4:1 mix of the radio shack ferric chloride and distilled water.
I let it sit for about 50 minutes in the solution then I pulled it out and rinsed it of and rubbed off the slim that develops. Then I stick it in another jar of TSP to neutralize the acid. I dip it in tsp a few times and spray with windex too so I'm sure its neutralized.
This is what it looked like after the etch, as you can see I have some issues. For some reason the flats did not really etch like the rest and has some stains, a Cindy Crawford birth mark. Not really sure why I'd did this, I assume there is a small decarb layer I did not get removed.
Marked my makers mark. I spray the surface with winded and tape the stencil down, I usually use scotch tape but the wife needed the last to wrap up gifts so I used electrical tape. Saturated the phelt pad then dryed it off some so its damp then I use a swiping motion across the stencil with the pad.
Next thing to do is to mask off the areas I don't want to get and acid bath. I'm going for a dark etched tumbled look on the blade. So I raided the wife's nail polish...which all I found was this one bottle of red glitter, my wife hardly ever paints her nails so I was lucky to get this.
I use PCB etchant from radio shack.
Into the jar, this is a 4:1 mix of the radio shack ferric chloride and distilled water.
I let it sit for about 50 minutes in the solution then I pulled it out and rinsed it of and rubbed off the slim that develops. Then I stick it in another jar of TSP to neutralize the acid. I dip it in tsp a few times and spray with windex too so I'm sure its neutralized.
This is what it looked like after the etch, as you can see I have some issues. For some reason the flats did not really etch like the rest and has some stains, a Cindy Crawford birth mark. Not really sure why I'd did this, I assume there is a small decarb layer I did not get removed.
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
I went ahead and sanded the flats some but I'm afraid to sand to much and change the thickness and screw up that and I don't want to wash out my makers mark.
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
After etching the blade I tumbled it in ceramic media from HF. This is the stuff.
I take about 1/3 of it out of the container, spray it with wd40 inside and the blade, toss the blade in there and roll it in my hands like a tumbler. 5 min maybe, I'm just wanting a irregular scratch and dent pattern.
What it looks like after.
Those marks on the flats just suck, I tried to sand them out but they are to deep so I did the best I could without washing out my makers mark and changing the thickness of the blade and rolled with it.
Last night I did final assembly, added a drop of blue loctite to each screw with a tooth pick and screwed her together.
Today I'm going to sharpen it and get final pics after work and this will be a wrap.
I take about 1/3 of it out of the container, spray it with wd40 inside and the blade, toss the blade in there and roll it in my hands like a tumbler. 5 min maybe, I'm just wanting a irregular scratch and dent pattern.
What it looks like after.
Those marks on the flats just suck, I tried to sand them out but they are to deep so I did the best I could without washing out my makers mark and changing the thickness of the blade and rolled with it.
Last night I did final assembly, added a drop of blue loctite to each screw with a tooth pick and screwed her together.
Today I'm going to sharpen it and get final pics after work and this will be a wrap.
Daniel Rohde
Well-Known Member
This is looking so Cool!
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Got it sharpened tonight with the ol Lansky. Here is the last teaser pic.
Tomorrow I will get some good pictures and a short video.
Tomorrow I will get some good pictures and a short video.
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Well ya better come by my shop today cause its going to its new home tonight!
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
OK guys here it is all done!!
First off thanks to everyone's help on here I seriously could not have done it without the support.
Specs:
AEB-L stainless steel 60hrc etched and tumbled bevels and swedge.
Sandblasted titanium handle
Titanium pivot,screws and thumbstud
Titanium deep carry pocket clip from usaknifemakers
Overall length opened 8"
Blade length 3 1/2"
Closed 4 1/4"
Still has some spots on the flats that I'm not exactly happy with and the Cindy Crawford mole..lol but I can live with it for my first.
I started this back in July and had plans to make 2 one for me and one for my brother it has taken me a long time to finish so my Brother has been patiently waiting so I'm giving this to him. I know he will love it and will be in the family forever.
Thanks for following along!
First off thanks to everyone's help on here I seriously could not have done it without the support.
Specs:
AEB-L stainless steel 60hrc etched and tumbled bevels and swedge.
Sandblasted titanium handle
Titanium pivot,screws and thumbstud
Titanium deep carry pocket clip from usaknifemakers
Overall length opened 8"
Blade length 3 1/2"
Closed 4 1/4"
Still has some spots on the flats that I'm not exactly happy with and the Cindy Crawford mole..lol but I can live with it for my first.
I started this back in July and had plans to make 2 one for me and one for my brother it has taken me a long time to finish so my Brother has been patiently waiting so I'm giving this to him. I know he will love it and will be in the family forever.
Thanks for following along!
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Here is a short video of it, not the best video I shot it with my phone but here it is anyway.
https://youtu.be/Nkk4JbrfNKA
https://youtu.be/Nkk4JbrfNKA
Justin Presson
Well-Known Member
Forgot to add this photo of my brothers initials I masked off and blasted on the inside of the scale.
