Drilling handle out for hidden tang?

Justin Presson

Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
I must stink at searching because I can't find much on this plus I'm doing it on my phone so that don't help.

I'm working on first hidden tang knife and trying to get it wrapped up for Christmas and feeling the pressure.

My question is what bit do you guys use to drill out the handle for the tang. Do you use a bit the same size as the tang thickness or smaller...larger?
Where do you get a bit long enough? I'm going to go to a tool supply store today all my bits will be to short. I need to make me a broach to so any ideas I will take.

OK there is my list of questions for the day

Thanks for any and all help.

Here is a pic of the knife I'm making
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Justin, I use the same size as the tang, or whatever is real close, either over or under. I taper my hidden tangs back too. It doesn't have to be even or pretty but just so it's thickest where it goes into the handle and thinner as it goes back. I'm talking only a little bit too, not much. Like a .020" or so taper from one end to the other. This helps in guard fitting too.
 
Justin, I haven't tried a hidden tang yet, but I do have some long drill bits. If you've got a good tool supply store, ask for the "aircraft" drill bits. They usually come in 6" and 12" lengths. They only have cutting flutes on the bottom couple inches or so, and I've cut the long ones off to custom lengths before.
 
I think everybody develops their own method for hidden tang handles.....here's what I do:

First I mount the guard to its final position on the tang....then, using the back of the guard material as a straight edge, I mark the angle on the handle material.....then, using a compound mitre saw, cut the exact angle so that back of the guard and the front of the handle material match up perfectly.

I have 7/32" & 1/4" drill bits, that are 6" long. Using calipers, I transfer the width and height of the tang (measured just at the shoulders where the guard mounts) onto the face of the handle material. Using an 18V drill, I lock the handle material in a vise, and drill two holes, angled towards each other, that intersect about 1/2-3/4 the depth of the hole. CAREFULLY use the drill bit to "side cut" the web between the holes. I have special tools (I call them handle broches) to "dig" out the interior of the hole until the tang fits as I want it to. It's better to have the hole a bit oversized, rather then super tight.....whatever "glue" you use MUST have some room for a solid, long life fit.

A "trick" I've used for many years is to use black fiber spacer material between the guard and handle materials.....and use black pigment in my Acraglass......that way if there ever is any tiny imperfections between the guard and handle, the black spacer and the black "glue" will totally make it disappear.

Finally: As long as you have the mating faces between guard and handle material "right", there is no need for clamps or pressure...in fact it's often counterproductive. If the mating faces are prepared correctly, all you need is the weight of the blade and guard......just set it upright, using a clamp or vise to hold it vertical if necessary, and LEAVE IT OVERNIGHT. For years I tired using clamps or other devices for "gluing" hidden tang handles, and was always having problems...when I decided to forgo the clamps, all the problems went away......just have to be sure the angle on the front of the handle material tight matches the back of the guard.....and everything else takes care of itself.
 
Thank you all for the info. Went to Lowe's and got a long bit never knew they had them thought I would have to go to the tool shop. Also made a broach out of an old sawzaw wood blade not sure how good it will work but it's a start...slow day at work. I need to thin it a bit more.
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Looking good.

I use sawsall blades for broaches as well, but I grind away the TOP of the blade which gives me a cutting surface the whole length which makes it easy to keep the side of the tang hole straight and even along its length.

I have also found that spacers help to accomodate some discrepencies, but I clamp my final assembly, drill the pin hole, take it all apart, goop it up with the epoxy, clamp it back together, drive home the pin, leave it clamped and let it sit for a full 24 hours.
 
Nice work Justin! Dont worry to much about the alignment. Looks like there is plenty of wood thats going to need to be removed. So you should be OK on this one!

Ed. I am happy to hear that I am not the only one who doesn't clamp a hidden tang. Like you I found it to be pain inn the backside. :)
 
I have only attempted one hidden tang,and that was about 10 years ago as I was just getting started with making knives. I didn't know the first thing about making knives or the knife forums. I had so much trouble with that knife I never tried it again.

Justin, that looks great, can't wait to see it finished.

God bless
 
Keep some threaded rod in various sizes around the shop. It makes a pretty handy broach in a pinch. Grind or file the front edge at a roughly 45 degree angle and you're ready to go.


Rudy
 
Thanks guys for all the tips and encouragement. I got it epoxyed with acraglas last night...that was nerve racking.
So I'm on a tight deadline(Christmas) gift for my dad.
Would it be OK to work the handle later today, say like 3-4pm or should I wait until tomorrow since I glued it last night about midnight?
 
I always keep the leftover acraglass in the mixing cup, and when it's been hard for an hour or so I will begin to work my handle, although I am strictly using hand tools to do so. I think you would be plenty good to go ahead and get going, especially if it has been pinned.
 
One little thing I found handy while trying to get this tang hole cleaned up was my cell phone. It's hard to get a light in the hole and look inside at the same time so i I turned on the flashlight on my phone which is the camera flash the I switched over to my camera and it allowed me to see inside alot better just looking on my screen because I wasn't trying to hold the flash light and look in at the same time.
Might be of some help if you have not tried it.
I snapped a few pics so you get the idea.
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Another thing that helps me looking into the hole is an led headlamp. The ones that pivot can be set to where its comfortable to see and work. Just an idea for the next one.
 
Justin , looks good so far.
I wouldn't worry too much about the blade being turned a little. Since I use antler for most of my knives I do mostly hidden tangs. I always clamp my knives when glueing handles after having a couple handles slip on me.

Again nice work, good luck
 
I bought the 3/16 and 1/4 12 inch bits and cut then down to like 7 inches. I figure out my depth and wrap blue masking tape at that point on the bit. I then enlarge the hole with my handle;e branches. I have a couple that John Perry made for me about 7 years ago.
 
Justin:

Here is my latest Hidden tang not glued but Fit Up. Once I have laid out my tang position on the outside of the handle, my first step is to drill my single pin hole. Then I build my slot for the tang before I heat treat because after I drill my holes for the tang and clean out the excess, I heat the tang and use it as a torch to get the slot to closely fit the shape of my tang. The side holes I drilled earlier allow heat and smoke to exit the handle during this process. Once it all fits good I clamp it up and complete my single pin hole through the tang . This assures me of a very tight fit so, like others have suggested, I don't have to clamp the glue-up.


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Wallace
 
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