DeMo 2022 Kith

I took John’s advice and hit the grinder. I cleaned off all the decarb. I then hand sanded the crap out of the blade. Then into the etch for 3 rounds at 10 minutes each.

This is why I like the KITH. I learned something today. Grind the decarb off before giving up on the hamon. I will polish and the blade should get even nicer.

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Flip side.

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Dennis Morland said:
I took John’s advice and hit the grinder. I cleaned off all the decarb. I then hand sanded the crap out of the blade. Then into the etch for 3 rounds at 10 minutes each.

This is why I like the KITH. I learned something today. Grind the decarb off before giving up on the hamon. I will polish and the blade should get even nicer.

0394-AD29-988-A-4589-B4-C5-76-EEA01-E0-D0-D.jpg


Flip side.

D4-D9-CB33-3-A63-402-A-AFE1-C935-A0-D9-E350.jpg
Click to expand...
Looking good!
 
It is time to polish. I want to see exactly what is in their for a hamon.

I use these two products. Flitz. Not because it is anymore special that any other polish. Again, I can get it locally at Menards.

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I made these little wooden applicators. They have felt attached. The felt is a non skid chair/table pad. Just cut to size, peel the paper and attach. Pretty darn simple.

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After first step about 10 minutes of rubbing your n each side. I use the black Flitz first. It is more watery than the tube. The tube is a paste and will be used later. It will take several attempts to get the blank polished to where I want to get it.

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When I first started making knives 10 years ago, I purchased a deceased makers inventory. Included was 2 bars of brass. 4 feet long, 2 inches wide, 1/4 thick. Perfect for bolsters.

After this set, I have 30 inches left from the original 96 inches. Here is the kicker, original price was $6 per foot. I wish I could find some more at that price.

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Just cut of a length that is needed.

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Split it, and you have both sides.

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Time to get the bolsters attached. I start by rounding the front. Where the bolsters meet the blade.

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Next, I scallop the back. Where the handle meets the bolster.

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Then I rough the top of the bolsters. Just enough to making sanding/shaping much easier.

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I hit each hole from the outside with a 3 degree tapered reamer.

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Here makers will differ. I epoxy my bolsters to the blade. Some makers do not. My reasoning is to keep moisture from going under the bolster. So I partially drill holes on the bottom side of the bolster to allow the epoxy to pool in the indentions.

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Should look kind of like this…

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