50 percent cerium, 25 percent lanthanum, and 19 percent iron, with small amounts of praseodymium, neodymium, and magnesium.
I agree wicha.Nope, you just need a sharp edge that's strong enough to scrape a shard off of the rod.
I personally don't like to use the knife for two reasons. It makes it ugly. The little hot shards can stick to the blade and make little pock marks. And, more importantly, knives are meant to cut things like flesh and you really can't hold a knife by the handle and put enough pressure on the ferro rod to strike it good. So for a few bucks, you can by a really effective HSS striker that is the berries for striking a ferro rod. View attachment 80521
Tie a little piece of shock cord through the hole on the ferro rod with the striker on it like this, and then you just stick it through the ferro rod loop and hook the cord over the end of the ferro rod and it's locked in. View attachment 80522
Ferrocerium is significantly softer than steel. Not sure about the flint and steel thing. I don't have one on hand to play with right now and never really payed attention when I used one.From what I have read and been told, the reason that you need hardened carbon steel to strike with a flint is that it is the STEEL that is being "shaved" off and sparked, much like when we grind a blade. With a ferro rod, it is the ferro stuff that is flaking off and lighting up.
LOL it's true.Just realize that bushcrafters take great pride in beating the snot out of their knives. It's the whole point for many of them- to have a knife that they can go out in the woods with and pretend that saws and hatchets don't exist. I'm not hating on them, they're good customers. They like carbon blades that patina well with 90 degree spines that work great for scraping ferro rods, and COULD be used for striking a flint once it gets old and beat up enough that they forgot what they paid for the knife. They like scandi grinds. They like full tangs because they like to split logs and make cabins with their knives (see sentence #1 and #2.) and they like to dig up pine knots and dig pitch out of trees with their knife.
All joking aside, take a look on YouTube at the knives these guys like. Very basic. Very durable. Carbon steel. Scandi grind. Don't round the spine, don't break the corners on the spine. Spear point. Full tang. Toughness over hardness.
Truth.Just realize that bushcrafters take great pride in beating the snot out of their knives. It's the whole point for many of them- to have a knife that they can go out in the woods with and pretend that saws and hatchets don't exist. I'm not hating on them, they're good customers. They like carbon blades that patina well with 90 degree spines that work great for scraping ferro rods, and COULD be used for striking a flint once it gets old and beat up enough that they forgot what they paid for the knife. They like scandi grinds. They like full tangs because they like to split logs and make cabins with their knives (see sentence #1 and #2.) and they like to dig up pine knots and dig pitch out of trees with their knife.
All joking aside, take a look on YouTube at the knives these guys like. Very basic. Very durable. Carbon steel. Scandi grind. Don't round the spine, don't break the corners on the spine. Spear point. Full tang. Toughness over hardness.
No it won't. Not with a piece of flint. And good sparking steels will not if tempered too much.Any steel will spark. @jmforge
Which is why I did not say with a piece of flint, maybe.No it won't. Not with a piece of flint. And good sparking steels will not if tempered too much.
You know, if you try to strike a spark off of your cell phone with a piece of flint, it’s not going to work either and it will really wreck your phone.Which is why I did not say with a piece of flint, maybe.
Edit: The point I was trying to make is that if you are in a survival scenario, a knife IS NOT going to help you. You got bigger issues than trying to spark a fire with a knife and flint. You have a cell phone that would work much better, etc, but thats ALL POINTLESS without WATA