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Relatively new to knife making and generally send my blades out for HT but thought I would try to heat treat some 1095. Heated my blank (flat ground) to non-magnetic in my 2-brick forge heated w MAP torch, held for a couple of minutes and quenched in 120 degree canola oil, came out straight...

I finally got my 2x72 grinder up and running and am working or the learning curve. I ground a couple out of mild steel for practice then jumped in, completely ruined the third attempt, got into trouble and the more I tied to fix it the worse it got, finally got the edge too thin and overheated...

I have heard repeatedlly that the most dangerous machine in a knife shop is the buffer, and I believe it. But why does a buffer need to run at 3600 rpm? I am currently using my drill press with a 6" buff running at ~700 rpm, it takes a couple of minutes (or more) to buff a blade but I don't...

Here’s the deal, I am building a barn/tool shed and I have allotted myself a 16’x20’ space in the corner for a workshop. This is a hobby for me and I have put off spending the money because I know I will never cover the cost. But, I got to thinking and I have spent more money with less...

Any tips on keeping the metal dust from bolsters from staining my handle? I am making a knife with a maple handle with NS bolsters and the silver is making my maple look dirty. I have noticed this before but with a darker wook it hasn't been significant. I've tried to sand the different...

First off, I am new to knife making. I realize I should probably make the same knife over and over until my skills are better but that would be boring. Each knife I am working on I have tried to do something new/different for me. This knife started of as a piece of damascus (haven;t worked...

Finally finished my second knife, a drop point hunter. A2 with stainless bolster, file work, walnut scales and mosaic pin. http://s806.photobucket.com/albums/yy349/tune_up5/?action=view&current=fixed2-L-side.jpg...