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I don't forge, so I know squat about anvils, hammers and such. Nonetheless, when I ran across this short on YouTube, I immediately thought that the forgers on this forum would find it interesting. My assumption is that you want an anvil that produces the least bounce, which means the simple disk...

I think CD got this thread on the right track suggesting countersinking metal pins and then filling or topping with something. I have a "thing" for opal and a year or so ago I did some heavy duty research on the Internet, looking at sites that sell to jewelers. You can get opals -- and most...

I think you're exactly right, the best way to deal with what I ran into was to go back and grind some more. I think I get fooled because the "leather dust" fills the cracks/gaps and makes all look smooth. I think in the future I'll take a stiff bristle brush and scrub the edge after I sand it...

I've seen some suggestions elsewhere that say you can apply a little beeswax and warm it so the wax runs into these little cracks between your layers. Then you burnish and apparently can get a smoother, slicker surface. Anyone tried that?

Thanks, Mike. But after you burnish, what if you have little gaps here and there between the layers? Maybe you don't get those.

I'm having trouble with a sheath that has four layers of leather. I trimmed the outside edges to match as closely as I'm able with an X-acto blade. Then I went to my belt sander and a used 120-grit belt to further smooth that edge. Visually and to the touch, I thought I had the edge sanded...

Really nice work, Chris. May I ask where you ordered the guard, or do you make your own?

No way he's letting those blocks go for just over $10 apiece.

Maybe not quite as good as a "real" stitching pony, OPaul, but I think the fact that this one mounts and works differently could be pretty handy at times. Just be sure to add a good, thick layer of leather to those jaws or you'll get clamp marks for sure. Keep us up to date with the changes you...

This!

Nice work, Steve. Your stitching and your belt slots are really clean. I'd love a picture of the back side, so I can figure out how you made that fold down at the muzzle and worked that out. Again, very nice!

Excellent tip, John, and illustrated to boot. I kind of thought that simply removing a section and rejoining the ends with a square butt joint would draw attention to itself and detract from the pretty ends, so you've confirmed that. I like your suggestion. Let's see if folks come up with any...

Pre-cut scales are typically 6", right? But sometimes I have scales where the real knockout figure is at either end, with plainer grain in the middle, and I only need maybe 4 1/2" for the handle. Take these scales, for example: I've put scales on 10-12 knives now, mostly medium-size...

The workmanship and detail in this knife absolutely blows me away, John. Do you make the Damascus yourself, buy billets or what? How did this blade come to be? When I first ran into highly figured walnut like this, I was just mesmerized. What about a sheath, do you make those as well? What do...

Many thanks. That helps.

Dennis, I'm still a newbie, so is there a tutorial somewhere explaining how to make a layered bolster like this? I can think of several ways this might be done, but something tells me there's one right or best way. Is it simply a matter of gluing up the layers and then shaping them?

Knife and sheath are both gorgeous, Randy. But you teased us with the "orange liners" description and then all we got to see was one little speck in that first photo. Any chance you might add a photo that really shows off the liners?

They should name that model the Brittney Griner Special. :D

For about 4 years I've been shaping and finishing exotic scales and putting them on purchased blanks. About a year into that I added leatherworking because I couldn't find sheaths that suited me for the knives I was finishing. Now I've run into something that I just haven't seen before, called a...

Gotta agree with bladegrinder, the wood in the photo appears pretty light and without much potential. That said, we all know wood can look really sad and then pop out beautiful when wet with alcohol or an oil finish (example below; yes, bubinga). Maybe get the seller to take that piece out in...