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I'll second the "engineered" belts. Not exactly a typical "600 grit" per say, and I can never remember the number designations and their equivalent grits, but the higher grit engineered belts do seem to last a good while relative to a traditional ceramic, aluminum oxide or zirc belt. I also...

What kind of steel is it, and where’d you get it?

Tony Bose will post one from time to time on his Instagram. There’s also a link to some patterns on his web page, though you have to work out the tang and springs yourself for those.

Do you have a picture of something similar? Is this a tapered ring?

You're looking for welded rings that are 1-1/2" OD x 1-1/4" ID? That means the ring material would only be about 1/8" thick, which would likely make it a little too flimsy for your average "welded ring application". What exactly are you using them for? https://www.mcmaster.com/3769t73 is...

That's very clean and classy. Just the right amount of embellishment as well, IMO. I recently watched Kyle Royer's take down build, and between seeing his and now yours, I think my itch to build one is increasing.

Two kinds of people in this world: Those that admit to hoarding over-used 2x72 belts, and liars. :D I'm the "Let's tear the belt into a strip so I can't use it on the grinder, but I'll roll it up and save it because now I can use it as emory paper on the lathe, or maybe for shining boots or...

The cone is indeed necessary if using gas, but the wire welder I have doesn’t have a gas hookup. It’s flux core only, so the cone doesn’t serve any real purpose.

Yeah, I found that not only could I see better, but it gives better access to tight spots. I like the brass protector idea. Well done!

I think more and more welder manufacturers are going to DCEN these days, as it has become somewhat of a selling point. It’s been a while since I converted, but if I remember right, the older harbor freight flux cores were AC with a positive electrode. Basically you just add a rectifier and a...

Congrats. I've got an AC/DC buzz box for bigger work, but more often that not I'm doing relatively light tacks and beads, so I'll grab my cheap HF flux core wire welder. (That, and I'm just not nearly as good with stick.) It's a little 100amp 110vac welder, but I converted it from ACEP to DCEN...

I felt like a 3lb hammer would have been overkill.

Interesting. I remember getting my mild steel platen backer so hot that I couldn't comfortably touch it for more than a few seconds, and never had an issue with the tape coming loose. It did get "softer" to be sure, but was still quite tacky. Full disclosure, my backer is very flat and roughed...

I'd make sure you flatten everything out really well. Glue some paper to a piece of glass, a granite block, or even just a piece of 3/4 MDF or anything else you have that's reasonable flat. Take a pencil and shade the mating surfaces before sanding them flat. This will help you see if you have...

I've had good luck with Duck brand exterior grade double sided carpet tape from my local big box store. Every once in a while I'll give the glass a side to side wiggle while changing belts, just to make sure nothing has let loose. So far so good..... VHB tape is good stuff too.

Folders are pretty low speed with relatively light loads, so IMO, any basic light machine oil should work. I think all these modern "space age nano lubes" are just marketing hype and more/less unnecessary. The other thing is that a lot of people tend to over lube, and that attracts things like...

Here's a link to the maker who built his oven with top mounted elements: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/heat-treat-oven-wip.1407817/ Basically, instead of carving into the sides of your bricks, you thread the element onto ceramic rods and hang the rods in the top of the oven.

Haha. Never too many projects right? Basically I want to improve what I skimped on with my first build. The main "shortcoming" was not building a shell, so that will be priority #1. It'll likely be somewhere around 14 gauge mild steel. I'm not sure if I'll do a swinging door, or one that flips...

Looks like an Old Hickory butcher's knife, or one of the many similar brands that were floating around back then.

I built my own before I had made my first knife, and the cost was probably around 1/4 of what the available ovens at that time would have cost me for a similar size and wattage. That said, I did cheap out in a few regards, and there weren't nearly as many options available then as there is today...