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Just to clarify, I use 60 and 120 ceramic plus 220 pre heat treat, then 220 and 400 AO post HT. Hand sand or surface conditioning belt after.

Personally. I use 60, 120, 240, 400, then hand sand for a satin finish. Most of my knives are hunters, bowies, etc. Not a big fan of high polish unless I do the occasional kitchen knife. A belt is too worn out when it starts generating too much heat with too little material removal. I guess it...

For what it's worth, my experience with horse hide is as follows. It is tough but, you have to be careful when wet molding. It doesn't stretch like cowhide. You want to make sure the knife will slide in and out freely before it dries.

Nice work.

Thanks everyone for the input.

By dressing I assume you mean grinding it smooth?

I know that Menards carries refractory supplies. You could check at other home improvement stores.

How does one mount these to a forge body? I might have a use for them.

Here are a couple of additional pictures. The rebound was pretty good. Because of the face condition and the fact it is not on a level surface, the ball did not bounce stright up but on an angle. It came back up to the drop height.

I'll have to check out the rebound and get more pictures.

Do you have a shot of the entire group?

I know it is not in pristine condition but, I am wondering what it might be worth. Actual weight is 146 pounds.

I usually have 4-6 blades so that if one gives me issues, I can move on to another for a while. Granted, I am a part time maker.

I'm really happy with my Ameribrade setup. If you get the stand you also have a handy place to store your spare work arms.

Welcome.

Welcome.

I just received a message from my inquiry along the same lines. I was informed that the itinerary should be finalized by the end of the week.

Welcome.

Welcome.

In my opinion, I would temper them again. Better safe than sorry.