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No, no. Didn't think that you were hijacking the thread. It's just an interesting topic, and people can go really in depth into how they do their hidden tangs. There are a multitude of ways to skin that cat. A lot of it is figuring out what works for you.

So, I ended up getting a mini-mill and use it to mill a slot to start. However, at the end of the day, the fit-up is all hand filing. You can definitely drill and file to connect the holes, and I've done that. Just make sure you start out with the holes (and slots) being smaller than your...

Thanks! I've gotten to where probably 90% of my knives are now hidden tangs. They take a little longer, but I really like them a lot better.

Working on my first double lugged guard for a fighter. It's starting to come together.

Hey, guys. Just for update. I'm in the process of getting a new stencil right now. Ernie's son has now taken over the business for his dad. His name is Bo Grospitch. His contact info is: 720-379-4651 M-F (8:30a - 6:30p MST) CONTACT VIA EMAIL design@bigguyillustration.com

I really like that setup. I have a post vise, and have put it on a wooden stand. However, it's not nearly as stable as this. This is much better, and having a striking plate is huge.

WEN makes a cheap one that I got from Home Depot. It gets the job done, just really slow to remove material. Sold it when I got my 2x72.

Have this one ready to cut the shoulders to start fitting a guard.

I have that same WEN filtration system. It works well. I have tented off my grinding area from my clean area with floor to ceiling shower curtains.

I keep a spreadsheet of every knife that I sell that includes all of the details of the knife. I use it for tracking for yearly sales, and the number of knives I have sold. I also take photos of every knife that I finish, and I include a photo of the knife on the COA.

I have the 18lb vibratory tumbler from HF, and use the ceramic media from HF also. Here is one of my stonewashed knives and one of the stonewashed finishes I shoot for.

One thing to keep in mind, if you are doing long blades. It will sometimes consistently flip a knife to a certain orientation because of blade geometry, and will work one side more than another. Just don't let it run too long, and reset the orientation of the knife to get the desired wash on...

Get the 18 lb tumbler from HF. It works fine for blades that size. I've stonewashed many a blade in it.

Jantz carries walnut display cases. I just ordered one for a commemorative knife I am making.

Unfortunately, when I was trying to buy one, the Grizzly was on back order for like almost a year. I ended up getting a digital one from Amazon that may not be quite as good, but still does the job. Now, I couldn't make a knife without using it.

I just went from a 2x42 to a Reeder 2x72 over the summer, and it has made a world of difference in the grinding. I couldn't be happier. You will like it.

It's a paste. It's a good metal polish that has some cut to it. It would leave somewhat of a shine, but still with a satin finish. This one is finished to 600, then scotch-brite, then semi-chrome.

For a final finish on the satin, after the scotchbrite, use semi-chrome polish on it.

I will second Ernie's stencils. I purchased one of the power supplies he recommends on his website, and it has been great for me. It is adjustable from 0-40v DC and AC. I also bought a hand marking tool from usaknifemaker about three years ago. It has gone up in price quite a bit since then...

I've also used carbon fiber pins. They work well, and have good strength also.