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Thanks, Ed, that really does help. Great information. You have saved me a lot of failures.

I would like to try to make some San Mai. I have lots of experience with forge welding, but have never tried San Mai. I am thinking of using 1/4"x 1" 416ss on the outside and 1/4"x1" 1095 on the inside. I have heard I need to do a dry weld. So, will my wire welder weld the 416ss to the...

Thanks! excellent video. Thanks for not having a lot of silly background music. What kind of tool do you use to put the clay on the blade?

Wayne, sorry I haven't replied, but I didn't notice until today that I had a message. I used to attend church with the Thompson's. I have been to Sitting Bull Falls and Last Chance Canyon many times.

A small wheel on the grinder and Norax belts. Norax belts don't leave a splice bump like other belts do.

I would slab it a minimum of 2" wide because sometimes in stabilizing the piece of wood will warp. After it dry's I would send it to K&G for stabilizing. I have all the equipment to do it myself and have stabilized a lot of wood, but I finally have to admit that K&G with all their equipment...

Like others have said, rough the pins up on the belt sander and with good epoxy they will hold. I have done this for over 30 years and have never seen one fail.

Several things can help. Use a fine white buffing compound, and use a buffing rake to clean the wheel. Don't use brass hardware, use stainless steel hardware. put several coats of Birchwood Casey true oil on, then go over it with 0000 steel wool then buff. Finally, if you do get some...

Very nice! I look forward to seeing more of the build.

When I clean up my shop, I cant' find anything.

That's a very good question. My quench tank is right behind the Paragon oven. I pull the blade out of the oven, turn around and immediately dunk it in the Parks 50. I don't think it could be done any quicker. Thanks for the question, I appreciate you thinking about the experience I had. I...

Thanks, Kevin, I very much appreciate your input.

This morning I checked the blade again and the file skated over both sides of the blade. I checked the RC hardness and it was 52RC. I check the ricasso where the steel is thicker. Maybe it didn't get as hard as the edge of the blade. I can't check the edge of the blade for RC because it is beveled.

I have never really worked with 1095 steel, but had some in my shop that I had bought years ago. Today I decided to use some. After the blade was ground to a rough shape. I normalized at 1600 degrees, then let cool, then normalized at 1500 and let cool. Then I used my Paragon to heat to...

Kevin, I don't know that I have been told any negative effects that would come from quenching. I have heard some say to do it, and others that it is not needed. I just wanted to get more information on which way was best. Thanks for the information.

I have heard this discussed before, but wanted to get some more input. When tempering, is it best to let the blade cool off slowly as the oven cools off, or is it better to take it out of the oven and quench it in say, water. Or, does it make any difference.

I use a 10" and a 14" on mine with no problems.

1/8" deep might be a little shallow. I have used InLace on woodturnings and I try to go maybe 3/8" deep. 1/8" might work if you make a recessed cut. The possibilities are endless.

I'm not sure why they are so loud. I put a variable speed motor on mine and it is still loud. I like the sheetmetal, most of the time it protects from a belt breaking. I have four other grinders, and still use the Square Wheel a lot. I bought mine around 1980 and have used it a lot. They are...

The InLace comes in two parts. You mix it up then pour it in the cavity. The InLace is a thick liquid. It will completely dry in 24 hours. It then can be cut, sanded, etc. To use on a full tang knife I make one cut out of the roadrunner in a block of wood twice as thick as I want the scales...