Handle buffing

what type of wood, natural hardwood or stabilized? But in general, use a VERY clean wheel with just a tad of white or pink (very fine) rouge. Then just buff lightly at a low surface speed. NOT a 10" wheel on a 3450 RPM motor, but an 8" wheel on a 1725 rpm motor works nicely. Make sure the wood has all pores sealed - perhaps a coat of CA?

Have a wheel that's used for wood only, NEVER use this same wheel with metal.

Ken H>
 
It is typically stabilized wood. This usually happens when doing lighter woods.

How do you avoid the wood when buffing the tang/pins/lanyard tube?
 
VERY CAREFULLY and very lightly buffing that area. If the handle/pins are sanded to 1500 grit, it doesn't take but a "touch" with wheel to bring out the shine in the pins. For the tang area I try to buff long ways so the wheel is turning in direction of tang rather than across the metal to wood.

Using dark wood helps a lot {grinning}

Ken H>
 
carefully tape off bolsters, guards while buffing wood, and then tape off wood to buff the bolsters, especially if these are brass or nickel silver.
 
Several things can help. Use a fine white buffing compound, and use a buffing rake to clean the wheel. Don't use brass hardware, use stainless steel hardware. put several coats of Birchwood Casey true oil on, then go over it with 0000 steel wool then buff. Finally, if you do get some residue in the wood pores, Watco Satin Wax polish can help remove the residue.
 
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