C
chucktilbury
Guest
I am working on my heat treat oven. I am going to make it from castable refractory from this recipe: http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/1091-Furnace-Cement.php Does anyone have any experience with that? I am planning to make (reusable) plywood forms and then assemble the hot box with furnace cement.
I am planning a inside dimension of 12"x6"x4" and open to the top with a removable lid, rather than opening on the end. The walls will be 4.5" thick. The outer skin will be galvanized steel. I have some DXFs if anyone is interested. The question here is, how does the castable refractory compare to actual bricks? Would a 2.5" or a 3" wall be thick enough to let the outside stay reasonably cool?
I am choosing a PID. I am looking at 2 different models. I need the ability to do annealing as well as hardening and tempering and so I am looking at one that can do ramp and soak, but I want to be sure that it is what I want before I spend the money. Here is a link to one that does not have it:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
and here is one that does:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=4
Do ya think that 30 steps are enough? I found some on ebay that have 64 steps, but they are 2x the money (>$150). Worth it? Waste of $$?
Thoughts, anyone?
I also need to design/select heating elements. I am planning to use a SSR and 220V to drive it. I need the maximum temperature to be around 2000F, but I will normally use a max temp of about 1500F. I want to have reliable control down to about 200F. Can anyone help or give a pointer to data about the wattage required to do that with a hot box that is the size that I am planning?
Other thoughts: I would rather make the hot box larger. I think that 12"x6"x6" would be more useful, but I really need to keep the cost down as much as possible. I do not plan to do any melting or to use it as a forging oven.
And, what about the idea of making to top-opening rather than putting a door on it?
Is there anything I have missed, or that is not generally known that I should think about?
Thanks everyone,
-=chuck=-
I am planning a inside dimension of 12"x6"x4" and open to the top with a removable lid, rather than opening on the end. The walls will be 4.5" thick. The outer skin will be galvanized steel. I have some DXFs if anyone is interested. The question here is, how does the castable refractory compare to actual bricks? Would a 2.5" or a 3" wall be thick enough to let the outside stay reasonably cool?
I am choosing a PID. I am looking at 2 different models. I need the ability to do annealing as well as hardening and tempering and so I am looking at one that can do ramp and soak, but I want to be sure that it is what I want before I spend the money. Here is a link to one that does not have it:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3
and here is one that does:
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=4
Do ya think that 30 steps are enough? I found some on ebay that have 64 steps, but they are 2x the money (>$150). Worth it? Waste of $$?
Thoughts, anyone?
I also need to design/select heating elements. I am planning to use a SSR and 220V to drive it. I need the maximum temperature to be around 2000F, but I will normally use a max temp of about 1500F. I want to have reliable control down to about 200F. Can anyone help or give a pointer to data about the wattage required to do that with a hot box that is the size that I am planning?
Other thoughts: I would rather make the hot box larger. I think that 12"x6"x6" would be more useful, but I really need to keep the cost down as much as possible. I do not plan to do any melting or to use it as a forging oven.
And, what about the idea of making to top-opening rather than putting a door on it?
Is there anything I have missed, or that is not generally known that I should think about?
Thanks everyone,
-=chuck=-