What's going on in your shop?

chrisstaniar said:
Sure, the top magnet is inside the branch in the lower half. I had to cut it off, hollow out an area and then put the magnets insde. Then glue that section of the branch back on. The base I just drilled up from the bottom about 2/3rds of the way through the board, put the magnets in and then glued them in place. You can balance the knife either way, tip up or tip down.

View attachment 82764

Click to expand...
That's awesome! My son has a scrimshawed knife I made him and a black squirrel he wants to mount. That would make a great display. Do you mind if I steal your idea? What type magnets did you use?
clyde.jpg
 
Randy Lucius said:
That's awesome! My son has a scrimshawed knife I made him and a black squirrel he wants to mount. That would make a great display. Do you mind if I steal your idea? What type magnets did you use?
Click to expand...

Yeah go for it. I got the idea from somewhere and then saw one on youtube. I got the magnets off of Amazon (see below). It's important to get the right size and that they are powerful enough. These are about the size of a quarter and I stacked 3 on top and 3 below. The other critical thing is getting the spacing right so that there is enough magnetic force to hold the knife in place. That means not having too much material between the magnet and the knife.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089CPXQQG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
 
chrisstaniar said:
Yeah go for it. I got the idea from somewhere and then saw one on youtube. I got the magnets off of Amazon (see below). It's important to get the right size and that they are powerful enough. These are about the size of a quarter and I stacked 3 on top and 3 below. The other critical thing is getting the spacing right so that there is enough magnetic force to hold the knife in place. That means not having too much material between the magnet and the knife.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089CPXQQG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for the info and link. Greatly appreciated!
 
CDHumiston said:
I bought a nice piece of this CuMai. Any secrets I should know about working it or heat treating it?
Click to expand...
What’s the core material? If it’s 1095 I would follow the heat for that. Other than that the layers will let you know how the grind is going. Good luck - looking forward to seeing your build.
 
opaul said:
What’s the core material? If it’s 1095 I would follow the heat for that. Other than that the layers will let you know how the grind is going. Good luck - looking forward to seeing your build.
Click to expand...

It is 1095. Did you do most of your grinding pre or post heat treat? I would guess with the material a good bit of pre heat treat grinding?
 
More Shiny S90V Shechita! Got the other 3, 5" models done, still gotta grind the 2, 4" versions. The 18" ones have been roughed to 36 grit pre heat treat and I am cleaning them up to 120 or 220 prior to HT. I will leave them thick and grind down to final post HT, but I am getting better with grinding this steel when hard. I use a progression of 26, 60, 80, 120 ceramic thick belts, then 120, 220 X flex Hermes ceramic on a leather platen, then 65, 45, 30, 16 micron Norax Ceramic and then I drop down to 220, 320, 400, 600, 1000 SIC belts. I go horizontally against the wheel with the 120 to make sure I got all of the deep scratches out, then switch to the leather platen on 120 and move up. These are all getting black G10 suretouch handles. The first handle was too big/thick/heavy, so I am doing the smaller handles very light and thin.
 

Attachments

  • shechita s90v shiny2.jpg
    shechita s90v shiny2.jpg
    757.7 KB · Views: 9
  • shechita s90v shiny.jpg
    shechita s90v shiny.jpg
    682.7 KB · Views: 8
I have this small replica knife of a 1950's hardware store $2.00 knife about ready to go out. I'm waiting on some Cutlers Rivets for the handle.

I also got some good progress on my Full Tang Damascus Bowie. I'm debating whether I should use the white bone scales or the fossil ivory? I'd have to shorten the handle by 1/4" but I kind of like the way the fossil ivory looks...

20230430_114149.jpg20230430_112638.jpg20230430_112842.jpg
 
DB8B0DBE-73CB-4D80-BA83-CADA0CFEAA3F.jpeg
Getting this one kind of close. “Ronin’s Ghost”. .140 thick Magnacut, distal taper, tapered tang. The tang is .007 thick at the thin end. Going to be getting some carbon fiber scales with gold anodized fileworked titanium liners and some gold anodized titanium Torx screws. It’s turning out good so far, I have to weigh it now. With all that tapering and a hollow ground blade, I’m guessing it will only weigh a couple ounces when it’s done.
 
IMG_4733.jpeg
Been working out a design for a commission piece. Customer asked for an “elven” blade (think Lord of the Rings). Going for an elongated Bowie/Persian thing. Also want to try some inlay on the handle. Any thoughts or critiques welcome. Hoping to finalize it this weekend. Blade steel will be 3/16” thick W-2 with hamon. Trying to decide on a piece of curly Walnut or maybe African Blackwood for the handle. Guard will be bronze.
 
That's "elven" blade for sure. I like the bottom knife with the inlays on the handle just above the bottom blade. Any of them will look good.
 
KenH said:
That's "elven" blade for sure. I like the bottom knife with the inlays on the handle just above the bottom blade. Any of them will look good.
Click to expand...
The bottom one is where I’m leaning. I think I want to shorten the ricasso a bit more.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top