What's going on in your shop?

opaul

Well-Known Member
One of my favorite patterns. a low count basket weave. I'll be flipping this one and facing this out to maybe get 2 or 3 folder size blades.
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I've shown this once but now it's been drawn out again to get smaller dots. I'm planning on Nitre Blue for this one as it has 2 or 3 different metals in it and should color up decent.
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Another low layer that I turned 45 degrees. This will be stacked into a 4 cube with the lines all coming to the center. Then I'll see where I go next with it.
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Kinda meh so far. Definitely will get stacked at least once and probably twice. This was my "rescue" can where the lid popped off and I had to weld a new lid on it to finish is.
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Those are all very nice there Boss!!
 

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
How long will all that last you Boss?

As slow as I am, probably a long time but for me it's about choices when I go to my personal supply cabinet for the next build. I have a lot of learning to do.
For the canister stuff I use 3"x3x3" cans. That runs out to around 12-14"long by 1.5" square. Mill off the can and you end up around 1&3/8" square. Cutting tiles off that is a lot of tiles and will last me forever. I usually cut half of it for a Ferry flip to do a san mai or a blade billet that will give me 2 or 3 blades worth.

For a traditional stack say 2"w x 4"l x 3"h I will get at couple blades from it and then maybe some small pieces for other things.
 

Chris Railey

KNIFE MAKER
So you will cross cut pieces off of varying thickness and draw that out into your knife so the pattern shown in the pictures is what you will get?
 

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
So you will cross cut pieces off of varying thickness and draw that out into your knife so the pattern shown in the pictures is what you will get?

it depends on the type of Damascus. Most patterns have to be “turned” from the end to the side. There are a few ways to do that. I will try to show some pictures of a couple different methods in the next few weeks.

Generally, after the pattern is developed it is not usually forged other than forge welding to join pieces together. If you forge say a knife from a billet with bevels and profile it will distort the pattern. BUT in some cases you do forge a billet to further shape the pattern like getting a feather pattern to line up with the tip of a knife depending on blade shape.
 

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
Made this twisting jig this morning. I will need to add a jam bolt to each socket if it slips.

How it came out. This can be better I think with water to control the twist in spots to keep it more even.
 
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Randy Lucius

KNIFE MAKER
I've got another batch ready for everyone's favorite part, hand sanding.



I love these fillet knives after they are ground.

Hi Gene! They all look good but that filet is awesome! What steel is it and what thickness did you start with? I would really love to make something like that. I have several fishermen in the family. Might make them some for Christmas.
 

Gene Kimmi

KNIFE MAKER
Hi Gene! They all look good but that filet is awesome! What steel is it and what thickness did you start with? I would really love to make something like that. I have several fishermen in the family. Might make them some for Christmas.

Randy,

I make my fillet knives out of .060" AEB-L. They are a little tricky grinding, but after a few, well 20 - 30 for me, I've caught on to it.
 

Randy Lucius

KNIFE MAKER
Randy,

I make my fillet knives out of .060" AEB-L. They are a little tricky grinding, but after a few, well 20 - 30 for me, I've caught on to it.
Whew! That's thin. I think you probably grind bevels after heat treat but do you have any trouble with warping during heat treat being that thin?
 

Gene Kimmi

KNIFE MAKER
Whew! That's thin. I think you probably grind bevels after heat treat but do you have any trouble with warping during heat treat being that thin?


I do grind after heat treat. AEB-L is known for warping, but I don't have too much trouble with it. I can usually get any warp out in the 2nd round of tempering. The fillet knives will warp during grinding. When they do, I just grind more on the outside of the warp until they are straight again.
 

Randy Lucius

KNIFE MAKER
I do grind after heat treat. AEB-L is known for warping, but I don't have too much trouble with it. I can usually get any warp out in the 2nd round of tempering. The fillet knives will warp during grinding. When they do, I just grind more on the outside of the warp until they are straight again.
Thanks Gene. If I decide to try one of these I might hit you up for some help if you don’t mind.
 

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
Here is a folder sized billet sliced off the bigger billet which turned out not that big but the goal was folder sized.

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The patter on the end needs to flip to the side.
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The billet is cut into even sized chunks.
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Stacked and welded. I TIG welded these together so I would have minimal weld metal in the billet.
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Here is where I nearly ground my thumb off with a fresh 36 grit belt and all my ample weight applied to it. Sorry I didn't get any bloody pictures.
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