What's going on in your shop?

One Armed

Well-Known Member
Yeah...,that wood cracking has caught me once or twice. I’m not a big fan of using wood scales. Only one customer I do wood scales for. This is Lignum Vitae. a wonderful “flowery” smell when working it.


For the spring I’ve switched to firearms building/gunsmithing. Done some trigger work, and right now I’m machining a couple lower receivers.


I know..., I know...NOT knifemaking! Just what I’m currently doing.I don’t get a whole lot of time to work on things, with pain always knocking on my door. Keeps me from working on more than one thing at a time, every few months.
 

Casey Brown

Well-Known Member
I've already seen how easy the grind can get away from you. I was able to correct one mistake to get it back to this point and ready to heat treat. I had reference lines everywhere to be able to see where I was grinding all around. It's a complex grind for sure, and I'm not convinced I will finish it to my liking. I'm happy with the progress so far, though.
 

One Armed

Well-Known Member
David...Love the lines on that knife! Well done.
Thank you kindly Ted. Would you believe that was an accidental design? Started as just a “one off” gift for a close friend. He’s a very skilled, avid hunter and told me exactly what he was looking for in a knife. After receiving & using it, he informed me it’s the best hunter he’s ever used.(after 30+ years of hunting). I tweeked the handle design a bit, but didn’t touch the blade. It’s become my most popular knife. It’s one of those blades that truly feels like an extension of one’s hand.
 

Gliden07

Well-Known Member
20200529_135527.jpgA friend of mine gave me the first piece of Demascus he made. Real low layer count and small. I decided to put a few twists in it so I squared it up, then twisted it a few times for the heck of it. Made a boneing knife with the blank. Did a quick Ferric bath just to see pattern. Wish it had more but its solid and forged nicely. Its kinda growing on me!
 

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
My forged pattern welded titanium and mosaic sanmai damascus blade.
Bearing set up.
Most work on a knife for me than any other to date.
TracyMickley-Folder-06022020-JSmith~1250x1500.jpg

IMG_1275.jpgIMG_1268.jpg
 

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Gilbert M

Member
Here is something I've been working on my first attempt at carving. The handle is getting pretty close. At the March 2020 Travis Wuertz hammer inn I was able to attend a carving class by Larry Fuegen a world class maker , very nice man and great instructor. My idea wasn't to copy things exactly from one side to the other.
 
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Heikki

Well-Known Member
Here is something I've been working on my first attempt at caving. The handle is getting pretty close. At the March 2020 Travis Wuertz hammer inn I was able to attend a carving class by Larry Fuegen a world class maker , very nice man and great instructor. My idea wasn't to copy things exactly from one side to the other.
Nice. I like how the leaf motif is repeated on the guard and handle. What kind of wood is best suited for carving?
 

Gilbert M

Member
Nice. I like how the leaf motif is repeated on the guard and handle. What kind of wood is best suited for carving?
Thank you. Larry was demonstrating on antler, I am using brown mallee burl here it's pretty soft so I think that could be good or bad. I almost used ironwood this is my only experience ,but I think finishing is easier on soft wood and so are mistakes .
 

BossDog

KnifeDogs.com & USAknifemaker.com Owner
Staff member
new flipper design time.
I start with CAD. Often I can import an older drawing and just move a few things around leaving the original inside geometry mostly untouched.
I print out a few copies and super glue them to some .125" stainless, the cheaper the better.
I'll spot the holes with an optical punch and then drill to size.
Most holes are #48 which is perfect for tapping in titanium. Some of these holes I will have to enlarge to #43 for through holes in my build materials but the #48 holes are perfect place holders.
The detent hole is #49
in this case, the stop pin is .093" and the pivot is 3/16.

The pattern on the left is an older one that shows what they look like when done.
IMG_1297.jpg

After the holes are drilled the patterns are ground back to the lines. Normally I use a contact wheel and work rest for the bulk of the stock removal and then I switch to small wheels and clean up the edges all smooth.
I will heat treat to around 59RC and go from there.

IMG_1298.jpg

I would not make a folder with out a hardened template in case (almost always) I have to make a replacement part.
 
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