Now, if that''s why, it looks like it is needed for a flipper. So...How do you mill it, and what is the best way to lay it out? Thanks.When the blade is closed you want the flipper to be even with or forward of the pivot. You'll find that in order to accomplish that you'll need to put the stop pin somewhere else.
Found it!!! If I get a rotary table for the mill, I can cut the curved slot. (or as suggested, I can drill it out and grind with a flex shaft).
So am I right so far? Do I NEED the curved hidden stop for a flipper?
Any rule as to where to draw that curve in relation to the pivot & bearings?
I was frustrated when I found the cost of a rotary table, so thanks!!! I found your post with photos of your jig here:I make that cut in the liners rather than the blade. Also, instead of using a rotary table, I built a tooling block for the mill....basically a 1/2" thick block, with a folder pivot embedded from the back side. I spot the open, closed, and center of the arc with the proper size drill bit, then stack my liners on the tooling block. Bring the the end mill down, lock the quill, and rotate the liners by hand. Much less setup time on the mill, and much less costly.