What is a good all around oil to use on knives?

MTBob said:
WD40 only has 2 uses, in this order:
1) spray on fishing lures (it works!)
And when nothing else is available,
2) cutting lubricant on aluminum
Other than those uses, I never spray it on any machined surface.
Click to expand...
Yeah the wd40 I'm referencing is not normally wd40... It's wd40 specialist long term corrosion inhibitor. ;)
 
razor-edge-knives said:
I use wd40 lcti... In my testing it's one of the best
i-GHQ5Zp9-X2.jpg
Click to expand...
In your tests sir did you try anything food safe? If so did anything work well?
It is disappointing to see that mineral oil which is what I use did not do too well.
 
I have been using Fluid Film for years I also use it on my guns.
It is one of the best lubricants and anti rust oils I have found.
1619373408846.png
 
A note on popular "food grade" lubes:
Froglube specifically is based on an old rollercoaster "tracklube," and it's almost certainly just coconut oil with a wintergreen scent additive. See analysis here. See one lube "manufacturer" suing a blogger and chemist over the truth about their soybean-oil-based gun lube here.

I point this out because I think more people in the gun/knife community should be skeptical of the "specialized" claims of lubes. It's not that I think any of the top-dollar lubes won't do their jobs, just that they aren't doing the job any better than a similar oil (similar weight, specifically) that's easy to find at much lower prices. It's not a bad product, but it is deceptive marketing.

The food grade thing often just means there's no solvent carrier. Teflon and graphite lubes, for example, usually come in a solvent that will make you sick if you get any in your system, but the solvent is designed to evaporate in less than a minute. Teflon is one of the least-reactive compounds out there, and graphite is perfectly safe, but if you inhale or swallow the carrier solvent you'll have a bad time.
 
DRJackson said:
A note on popular "food grade" lubes:
Froglube specifically is based on an old rollercoaster "tracklube," and it's almost certainly just coconut oil with a wintergreen scent additive. See analysis here. See one lube "manufacturer" suing a blogger and chemist over the truth about their soybean-oil-based gun lube here.

I point this out because I think more people in the gun/knife community should be skeptical of the "specialized" claims of lubes. It's not that I think any of the top-dollar lubes won't do their jobs, just that they aren't doing the job any better than a similar oil (similar weight, specifically) that's easy to find at much lower prices. It's not a bad product, but it is deceptive marketing.

The food grade thing often just means there's no solvent carrier. Teflon and graphite lubes, for example, usually come in a solvent that will make you sick if you get any in your system, but the solvent is designed to evaporate in less than a minute. Teflon is one of the least-reactive compounds out there, and graphite is perfectly safe, but if you inhale or swallow the carrier solvent you'll have a bad time.
Click to expand...
I compared plain coconut to frog Lube and frog Lube did way better in both salt and freshwater tests... It can't be just coconut oil with a scent added.

Here is the salt board after about 48 hrs, coconut oil was obviously way worse
i-kcJpvwT-X3.jpg


And the freshwater board after about 75 days
i-pGKm6z4-X3.jpg
 
REK Knives said:
I compared plain coconut to frog Lube and frog Lube did way better in both salt and freshwater tests... It can't be just coconut oil with a scent added
Click to expand...
I know I read your write up about this a while back (on BF?) and this distinction is one that I was curious about--what kind of coconut oil did you use? Virgin oil from a jar that gels below 25°C? Fractionated oil from a bottle that's liquid at room temperature?

Again, I'm not saying that Frog Lube is terrible, just that the company has been totally unwilling to give transparency about what's in it and is almost certainly lying about how they "developed" it.

If Frog Lube works better than the forms of coconut oil that you can buy at your local grocers, then it might be a smart pick. Likewise, even if Krytox fluorinated grease is cheaper per ounce than the grease you can get from CRK for your Sebenza, buying from CRK in a convenient tube might make more sense. (See also premium gasoline, expensive motor oil, etc.)

But if we don't test why and how one oil/wax/grease is working better than another, comparing them only gets us halfway to a working theory of corrosion prevention.
 
DRJackson said:
I know I read your write up about this a while back (on BF?) and this distinction is one that I was curious about--what kind of coconut oil did you use? Virgin oil from a jar that gels below 25°C? Fractionated oil from a bottle that's liquid at room temperature?

Again, I'm not saying that Frog Lube is terrible, just that the company has been totally unwilling to give transparency about what's in it and is almost certainly lying about how they "developed" it.

If Frog Lube works better than the forms of coconut oil that you can buy at your local grocers, then it might be a smart pick. Likewise, even if Krytox fluorinated grease is cheaper per ounce than the grease you can get from CRK for your Sebenza, buying from CRK in a convenient tube might make more sense. (See also premium gasoline, expensive motor oil, etc.)

But if we don't test why and how one oil/wax/grease is working better than another, comparing them only gets us halfway to a working theory of corrosion prevention.
Click to expand...
It was the organic virgin coconut oil from Costco (cold pressed, unrefined, chemical free).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top