Well This Is Weird

Randy Lucius

Randy Lucius

Well-Known Member
Still learning the new heat treat oven. This is 1084. Treatment was 1480F for 15 minutes. Quenched in Parks 50. Tempering it now. Hoping whatever this goofiness is it sands out ok. Anybody seen this before?

21F82EA7-0E32-46BB-9BC2-848E831E8B62.jpeg
 
Have you verified your oven temps? I've been hearing a LOT of makers finding out lately their ovens were off by a fair bit. That'd definitely be something I'd check asap if you haven't.

I think ovens are great but you have to know if the temps that are displaying are accurate.
 
J. Doyle said:
Have you verified your oven temps? I've been hearing a LOT of makers finding out lately their ovens were off by a fair bit. That'd definitely be something I'd check asap if you haven't.

I think ovens are great but you have to know if the temps that are displaying are accurate.
Click to expand...
It’s a brand new Evenheat oven I got for Christmas. I don’t currently have a way of verifying temps.
41128AA3-DD80-4D75-8FE7-B9456664EC26.jpeg
 
Well.....I'd figure something out.

You could verify with a secondary independent thermocouple.

Or you could buy some tempilstick test sticks that melt at various specified temps.

Or I believe table salt melts fairly consistently at 1470 F.

I certainly wouldn't want to assume its accurate because its a brand new name brand.......just sayin'.


I've got a good friend that just finally tested his evenheat after a couple years of assuming it was good and found out it was off by over 60 degrees.
 
Looks like decarb to me as well. The look can vary based on quenchant and how much it's decarbed.

I saw your vid on IG. I think you're supposed to make the steel lemon yellow and get a gigantic fireball when your quench is good. At least that's what they do on TV. ;)
 
tkroenlein said:
steel lemon yellow and get a gigantic fireball when your quench is good
Click to expand...
You're funny! I've often thought about just how much over temp lots of those blades are when quenched on FiF. Even under those bright lights they are really bright orange when they quench. Only a few times does anybody bring a magnet to test for quench.

Randy, to prevent scale buildup on high carbon I usually sprinkle borax (roach powder) over the blade as gently heating to melt powder. This forms a thin "glass" glaze over the blade to prevent scale buildup. After quench any that's left washes off easy with hot water.
 
My even heat has always been around 50 degrees off, give or take, right out of the box.

I picked up a K type thermocouple and PID controller all under $100.
Callinrated the controller to "0" in a slurry of ice and water.

Stuck the thermocouple through the front brick of my oven.

Then I either go by the temperature on the PID or compensate the temps in my head.

Other than that... Looks like decarb to me as well.
 
bladegrinder said:
Just looks like decarb, I've never used 1084 but why the 15 min. soak?
Click to expand...

15 minutes is a bit too long. The sheet mentions 5-15, they are probably using a blanket time frame for multiple alloys, I would keep it closer to the 5 minute mark for 10XX series. Whenever you see a temp or time range, the lowest numbers you can get away with are the best options. But that doesn't look like what I am used to when I see decarb. I'm thinking more along the lines of some sort of oxidation effect or a possible issue in the steel itself. It is very hard to say from just a picture. If it is decarb, it is a very odd, localized, version, perhaps incipient, before it gets too out of control.
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
15 minutes is a bit too long. The sheet mentions 5-15, they are probably using a blanket time frame for multiple alloys, I would keep it closer to the 5 minute mark for 10XX series. Whenever you see a temp or time range, the lowest numbers you can get away with are the best options. But that doesn't look like what I am used to when I see decarb. I'm thinking more along the lines of some sort of oxidation effect or a possible issue in the steel itself. It is very hard to say from just a picture. If it is decarb, it is a very odd, localized, version, perhaps incipient, before it gets too out of control.
Click to expand...
Thanks Kevin. Very good info. I’ll adjust the time and temp on the next one. I’ll finish grinding the blade this afternoon and do a hardness test.
 
If you clean the black off, without much stock removal, until the blade is just clean and shiny again, you may be able to see the spots still and it could tell you more. If you then give it a quick dip in ferric chloride, decarb will then make itself know much more clearly in the form of silvery, unetched spots. If the specks you have now turn dark, or take on a pitted look, you have a deeper issue in the steel itself.
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
If you clean the black off, without much stock removal, until the blade is just clean and shiny again, you may be able to see the spots still and it could tell you more. If you then give it a quick dip in ferric chloride, decarb will then make itself know much more clearly in the form of silvery, unetched spots. If the specks you have now turn dark, or take on a pitted look, you have a deeper issue in the steel itself.
Click to expand...
Thanks again Kevin. I’ll follow your recommendations and see where it leads.
 
Cleaned up the decarb and ran a hardness test. 60 Rockwell C. Right on the money according to the heat treat sheet I have. Can I assume this will make a decent knife?
 
Is this a reflection or a difference in the coloration of the steel? Did you etch it like Kevin suggested?1615DA50-5FE2-4A67-B93A-E93232B005B8.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top