Thumb jimping

Justin Presson

Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
Not sure if that is the right term but what files do you all use for thumb jimping?

I like the look and function of it and would like to incorporate into some of my knives.

Any good sources for files and tips?
 
Hi Justin!

I assume you're talking about the "traction marks" that folks put on knives? For the cleanest look with a nice feel, I think a metal checkering file works the best. You can purchase them from outfits such as Brownells and other gunsmithing supply outfits. Be prepared! They are pricey.
As an alternate some folks use either a round or triangle needle file. This give a "bigger" pattern, and in my opinion gives a more "tactical" look.
 
I'm very new to knifemaking so take my advice with a grain of salt but Ive used the triangle needle file as Ed said but I have also used my band saw but I also agree with Ed about the checkering file it has a very clean and uniform spacing. I just have not yet purchased one though.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
Hi Justin!

I assume you're talking about the "traction marks" that folks put on knives? For the cleanest look with a nice feel, I think a metal checkering file works the best. You can purchase them from outfits such as Brownells and other gunsmithing supply outfits. Be prepared! They are pricey.
As an alternate some folks use either a round or triangle needle file. This give a "bigger" pattern, and in my opinion gives a more "tactical" look.
Click to expand...
Hey Ed that's exactly what I was looking for, I could not think of checkering file for the life of me.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/18...g-file-20-lines-per-inch?cm_vc=ProductFinding

Something like this, 20 lines per inch sounds good for knives?

I agree on the round file marks look more tactical, I think something like this one would look good on a hunter.
 
arock said:
I'm very new to knifemaking so take my advice with a grain of salt but Ive used the triangle needle file as Ed said but I have also used my band saw but I also agree with Ed about the checkering file it has a very clean and uniform spacing. I just have not yet purchased one though.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips arock! Got any pictures of some you have done?
 
I was thinking about this same topic,
I'm glad you responded, that's great advice, I've only done one that the jimping turned out like
I envisioned it to look like, a couple of things I'd add to that would be to use one of those magnifying
headlamp things, I got one from Harbor Freight, it works well enough I guess, I got it primarily because,
"I'm blind in one eye and can't see out of the other!"
The other one, is to MEASURE!!! With the magnification on!
The difference is amazing, you won't realize how much you can't see until you see it!!

Thanks Ed for the advice, the checkering files your talking about, are they built similar to the wood type or
are they built more like regular files?
Something I've been pondering on, I know, (or think ), there have been a few knives that would have been
better, or more complete if they would have had jimping, is there a style or I don't know the right way to say it,
pattern maybe that fits some knives better than others?
I do like the round file jimping on Tactical type knives much better, and like you said, it has a MORE tactical look to it.
Thanks, Rex
 
image.jpgimage.jpg
These two pics on top are done with the band saw sorry it's hard to see I guess I didnt take a pic of the spine.
image.jpgimage.jpg
These two were done with a triangle needle file. Again not the greatest photos I'm no Cory Martin. They were taken with my cell phone with no intention on showing to professionals supposed to be for my eyes only. haha
 
Did you all get the 20 lines one? I assume the others will be to fine.

Thanks for the pics arock the band saw on looks pretty dang good. I'm sure it is a little more stress then the files.
 
Justin, if you come across any that are more like 10-12 lines per inch, let me know. I looked a while back and couldn't find any like that. The 20 lpi looks good on pocket knives, but seems too tight on a fixed blade to me. Personal preferences I guess....

Just an idea, something I did. I took a scrap piece of 1095 and filed jimping in with needle files. Really took my time to get it perfectly spaced, depth, etc. and then fully hardened it. I use like a file guide, you can clamp it on the knife and go to town with needle files, they just skate when you hit bottom. Works pretty good and you don't have to lay it out every time. Of course, this works best if you're making more than one of the same pattern knife.
 
I do mine with a cut off wheel in a rotary tool. I was making a folding knife for a martial arts enthusiast who wanted the slots spaced as Ed said for this tactical style. I had previously made a small device to cut liner lock spring slots and was able to adapt this to the new job. I have used it ever since and have received many compliments on the results it gives.
Frank
 
I use a 1/8" carbide burr in my Foredom Flexshaft. I mark them out and then make little starts on each black line mark and keep making them progressively deeper until I'm happy with mi thumb Jimp's then smooth any burrs remaining with a worn 600 grit at slow speed on the 2 x 72".
 
Thanks guys for the input, Frank or Laurence do you all have any pics. I'm going to have to experiment with some the suggestions you all have given me before I spend the $40 on one of the files.
 
Sorry Justin, No pics, but i am starting on a batch of EDC/Hunters so in a week or two? The Carbide 1/8" burrs are pretty cheap if you already have a flex shaft or dremel. I buy 'em on ebay.

By the way, I do the Jimping on the spine after HT just so you know.
 
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rhinoknives said:
Sorry Justin, No pics, but i am starting on a batch of EDC/Hunters so in a week or two? The Carbide 1/8" burrs are pretty cheap if you already have a flex shaft or dremel. I buy 'em on ebay.

By the way, I do the Jimping on the spine after HT just so you know.
Click to expand...
Good info right there. Thanks L
 
I mark my blades for line spacing and then bandsaw the cuts, and then lightly bandsaw the top edges of the cuts, and finally clean it up with a triangular file. I've been meaning to get a checkering file but I always seem to have order tooling needs that are priority.
 
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J. ROSA said:
I mark my blades for line spacing and then bandsaw the cuts, and then lightly bandsaw the top edges of the cuts, and finally clean it up with a triangular file. I've been meaning to get a checkering file but I always seem to have order tooling needs that are priority.
Click to expand...
I understand on the tools, always something.
Thanks for the tip.
 
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