The pup wondering again

[wall e]

I want to get a general collective of what all consider the most durable and flexable steel for a knife?

 

[EdCaffreyMS]

That's gona be like counting the starts in the sky....we all have our favorites.

 

[J. Doyle]

Flexibility is largely a function of geometry so really any steel can probably be made pretty flexible.

 

[bodam]

What's your plan for heat treating. For me, that determines my steel. My heat treater only air quenches, so I'm "stuck" with 440c or ATS34.

 

[wall e]

Thank you fellas for the opines. I want to make a real world useable do all combat knife. Similar to the one Gough has the video making a combat knife for a soldier. I dont quite have the exact geometry in my head yet. I know I would love to make a flexible version of the 11 inch one I made out of D2 planer blade.

This is along the shape I had in mind but maybe a bit more drawn out on the tip. I want to put a durable black grey coating or etch that is food safe and will last a long time.

 

[wall e]

Bodam the only person I have spoken to about ht is Mr Doyle. So I was asking for input and feedback from those experienced as to which way to go.

 

[bodam]

cool, the heat treating is going to play a factor in your choice I think. At least it does for me. I don't send out 10 knives at a time, so I use the local HT source, which only air quenches. But for now I'm perfectly fine using 440c. I like the steel and I like the cost, being a noob myself.

 

[rhinoknives]

Walt,
You are going in two different directions here. Flexible is what you want for a Fillet / Boning knife. These are usually thin.

A kick butt Combat knife that really usually gets used for opening crates, cutting rope, opening windows and maybe digging holes and possible someday fighting is a thick piece of steel more along the sharpened pry bar look these days. Flexible, 1/16" 3/32" thick. Combat 1/8"-3/8" or thicker.

 

[wall e]

Sorry wasnt meaning flexible like a fillet knife meant more of a bow then return to straight. Rhino your right on that aspect of is either a delicate thin blade or thick brute blade.

 

[rhinoknives]

Are you making a pry bar? A Fighter/Bowie type? Once againt the amount of flex is determined by the geometry and especially the HTing.

Lower RC is how they make springs. I am not a HT wizard but I have my large heavy use chopper, whacker field blades done to an RC of 55-57.

Carbon steels can be a little less likely to deform or chip but I have always had good luck with stainless.

Get some 440C, its inexpensive and you can make anything from Culinary fillet to hunters and big choppers. Send them out for HT.

 

[wall e]

Ok will give it a try thanks rhino.

 

[bodam]

I agree. I just got some 440c today. $9.95 a foot for
1/8x1 1/2


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[wall e]

Thats aldos prices?

 

[bodam]

Tx knife makers


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[wall e]

Copy. May check my local steel suppliers prices

 

[wall e]

If I want to buy a full length of steel they will order it in for me. Will get a price next week on 1080, 1084, and 440C. My dad today just told me he wants a good all around hunter style knife that will hold an edge for a long time.

 

[TacticallySharp]

Look up ABS Performance Test Knife. While not what I normally make, it seems to me to meet a lot of what you're looking for if you use 5160. Has flexibility so not to snap in two, if it bends you could get it straight enough to use it and has a good edge. The trick is the heat treat. You can heat treat it your self. Check YouTube for it.

 

[wall e]

Tactically Sharp will do that now since Im on lunch

 

[wall e]

So basicly it appears that 5160 will be the chopper and all around heavy duty work horse knife?

 

[rhinoknives]

That would work well, Do 440C for your surgical cutters and 5160 for the big chopper if you like.