The Newell .45 cal front loader

This is a disabled drill press that I still used to tap holes.
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Told you that you don't need luck :)
That damascus came out stunning. And one day in a distant future, i'd love to be able to grind my blades as well as you do.

I'm really amazed by this thread

Ondrej
 
I seriously love watching the progress of this build! How big are those triangles of scrap from the accordion cut? Big enough for knife bolsters? I mean, I'd hate to see it go to waste!
 
amcardon said:
I seriously love watching the progress of this build! How big are those triangles of scrap from the accordion cut? Big enough for knife bolsters? I mean, I'd hate to see it go to waste!
Click to expand...

Good Eye amcardon, too bad Papi beat you to them. :D
 
Great WIP! I showed my wife your gallery thread, and I told her I want to grow up and be like you some day.

Bruce, I'm curious how you use that disabled drill press to tap? I've got a small press just sitting around. Do you have a handle you use to turn the bit and then just feed it by hand? Or did you remove the return spring in the drill as well and let gravity feed?

--nathan
 
silver_pilate said:
Great WIP! I showed my wife your gallery thread, and I told her I want to grow up and be like you some day.

Bruce, I'm curious how you use that disabled drill press to tap? I've got a small press just sitting around. Do you have a handle you use to turn the bit and then just feed it by hand? Or did you remove the return spring in the drill as well and let gravity feed?

--nathan
Click to expand...

Hi Nathan,
Its one of those cheap drill presses that had a bad motor so I took that off and the return spring. I just use the top pulley to turn by hand and the quill will gravity feed and go down naturally as it makes threads. If I was really fancy I could replace the top pulley with a hand crank but you'd be amazed how you can feel the progress on the tap although cheap taps still break off and make me cuss outloud. My friend John Davis laughs at this setup because he spent $300 for a tapmatic for his drill press. I will to when I grow up.
 
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I went from the 14" wheel to the 4 1/2" wheel for a tighter hollow grind. I want this blade to lose some weight so this is one way to do it plus I just like the looks. This grind is actually flat and hollow. It takes some practise to do but its worth the extra time it takes. There will be some hand sanding and back on the grinder quite a few times before it evens out. The top edge is a 4 1/2" hollow.

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Bruce,

I attempted to go for the BB grind on a paring knife blade. From 10" hollow to 1"hollow (gotta go with what ya got) I've did one side like this and have it to the point of being hand finish-able. I have gotten side tracked with other knives and sheath work for the time being.

I may have gotten the 1" grind a little too high but ended up grinding the blade from the
1" hollow towards towards the edge working my way across to blend in the flat. I was curious if you do that or establish the small diameter hollow then blend by grinding the flat where the belt seperates contact with the contact wheel. Kinda on the top of the wheel with the spine towards you (at least on the KMG).

This is difficult to explain so hopefully you'll understand what I mean.

Also wondering if you go the top of the wheel route.... do you also grind in a convex edge while blending the flat.

And lastly, did you make customized hand sanding blocks to match the "hollow flat grind"

I know alot of folks think I'm a bit crazy for attempting such advanced techniques at this stage but some things you can only learn by practicing, and lots of it, so I try to get a jump start by going for it.

Thanks alot, Josh
 
Hi Josh,
I go from the 14" wheel right to the 4" wheel (actually 4 1/2")
I establish the edge to about .060" on the big wheel and hollow it most all the way up to the proposed center ridge and then go to the smaller wheel. I try to keep the small grind under the center ridge. Its a little tricky until the small hollow is established well enough to help hold the belt in the groove. I can make small adjustments once the small hollow is about finished. I can use the small wheel and move the blade around to remove the ridge between the hollow and the edge. It is actually almost flat if done correctly. Make sense? Its hard to explain.

Heres the big wheel again:
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Heres the small wheel:
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Heres the result:
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Here is my special bent spring steel popcycle stick for hand rubbing:
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Ok, my hands are worn out but I have this blade down to 2000 grit. Look how shiney it is and how cute my girl dogs are.

Oh the makers mark is etched now and protected (resisted) with nail polish from the ferric cloride in the etching process coming up next.

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Bruce

Thanks alot for the explanation and pics ! As I suspected you've got a platen above your 4 1/2" wheel. That is what really gave me trouble. Just as you mentioned, once establishing the the small hollow adjusting the top grind line is pretty easy.

After grinding to .060 with the 14 you continue to thin out your edge with the platen while grinding the 4 1/2" hollow at the same time.

Sound about right ?

Thanks again for sharing some of your knowledge with us ! -Josh
 
Josh Dabney said:
Bruce

Thanks alot for the explanation and pics ! As I suspected you've got a platen above your 4 1/2" wheel. That is what really gave me trouble. Just as you mentioned, once establishing the the small hollow adjusting the top grind line is pretty easy.

After grinding to .060 with the 14 you continue to thin out your edge with the platen while grinding the 4 1/2" hollow at the same time.

Sound about right ?

Thanks again for sharing some of your knowledge with us ! -Josh
Click to expand...

I dont use the platen at all. I could just take it off for this knife. I do eventually take the edge all the way to shaving sharp with a slack belt and hand rub to 2000 grit before etching the damascus. It wouldnt work out to grind the edge thinner and the small hollow at the same time but each can be done separately very easily.
 
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Thank again !

Bruce,

Thank you for clarifying. I'll stop pestering ya about it now :D

I am determined to add this type of grind to my arsenal so I'll probably come :running dog: back with more questions after practicing it some more, LOL.

2thumbs thanks for taking the time to help out a newbie

-Josh
 
A quick etch to see the pattern after all the grinding and sanding to 2000 grit. After the bevels are in the pattern looks a bunch better and way more even. I also like the fact that I used about a 60% mix of 15n20 which is very silver so this blade will be bright colored silver and not dark. Not that I dont like like dark blades its just that I like bright blades better.

See the pattern is there but gets smaller towards the tip? Thats because I tapered the billet and cut the accordian thinner towards the tip. I also didnt need to forge the blade to shape very much, if I did the pattern would be stretched out. Better pictures of that later.

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WOW!! I realy like damascus and that is some of the coolest damascus I have seen!!! I like the outcome of the 60% 15n20 and the way you tapered the billet Dang Bruce you realy know what you are doing. Nice job buddy! Can I have them when your finished????? LOL
 
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