super glue (cyanoacrylate) for handles.

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KNIFE MAKER
I've been using cyanoacrylate to finish wood handles. here's my list of pros and cons for anyone considering. My biggest obstacle is getting it on evenly. Any tips would be greatly appreciated....while you can finish in less coats it still seems the time spent sanding works out the same as a oil finish that you do more coats with but less time lowering high spots.

I have only worked with thin....the gel stuff I have not tried.
Pros
drys very quickly (short time between re-coat)
very hard finish....very hard...
very clear....maximizes the grain. no tint added by finish. beautiful finish on good wood.
buffs amazing...can do a high shine or easily pull back to a satin. Wherever you like it.
fills pores nicely
few coats needed
spot fixing is pretty easy

I would like to keep using it...just wondered who else is and if you've discovered any short cuts.

cons
stinks to high heaven....must wear breathing protection
very difficult to apply evenly...you're going to be doing "body-work". (I currently use finger cots to apply. have tried airbrush...disaster...lol)
have to work quick...once it "grabs" you have to let it dry...sand...start again.
expensive. I buy Titebond instant bond wood adhesive at $16 for a 4oz bottle. The wood doesn't waste much...but ted does trying to get it on the wood quickly and thick enough to flow.


 
I use it and I have kind of got my own way of doing it and my way does present a bit of an inhalation hazard. I will send you a PM on the details. As far as applying goes, I put two to three drops on one side of the handle then rub it in with my finger evenly. Then repeat on the other side. The thin stuff goes a long way so I wipe the spine and belly side with the same drops. After the first coat, it takes much less each time to cover each side one to two drops. I rub it in then buff off the excess with a clean cloth. I do that every time until I am happy. I do not like the built up think looking finish I prefer the wood to almost look natural just a little wet. You do kind of have to work faster to buff before the glue starts to harden and cause problems.

I did this folder in my SG finish.

Best friction folder so far.

Friction folder with 80crv2 blade, etched and Gun Koted. 410 stainless liners with maple burl scales. She weighs in at 2.8 ounces.
knifedogs.com
 
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Hi Ted.

Yes, it do stink and burns my eyes and nose! Most likely because I exhale on it to add moisture to speed curing.
Here’s a good enough video I found.
I use small pieces of folded coffee filters to spread and I use extra thin CA glue.

I really want his buffing attachment !

Scott
 
Once upon a time, when I was into model airplanes, there was a super glue with a brush, built into the tip. I think it was Jet glue, can’t be positive, but I think that was it.
 
Chris Railey said:
I use it and I have kind of got my own way of doing it and my way does present a bit of an inhalation hazard. I will send you a PM on the details. As far as applying goes, I put two to three drops on one side of the handle then rub it in with my finger evenly. Then repeat on the other side. The thin stuff goes a long way so I wipe the spine and belly side with the same drops. After the first coat, it takes much less each time to cover each side one to two drops. I rub it in then buff off the excess with a clean cloth. I do that every time until I am happy. I do not like the built up think looking finish I prefer the wood to almost look natural just a little wet. You do kind of have to work faster to buff before the glue starts to harden and cause problems.

I did this folder in my SG finish.

Best friction folder so far.

Friction folder with 80crv2 blade, etched and Gun Koted. 410 stainless liners with maple burl scales. She weighs in at 2.8 ounces.
knifedogs.com
Click to expand...
Nice...That is another PRO I forgot about. My theory is that knots and open areas can be left unfilled because of the strength of the SG holding it together. Thing can stay more natural looking without being weak.
 
SS369 said:
Hi Ted.

Yes, it do stink and burns my eyes and nose! Most likely because I exhale on it to add moisture to speed curing.
Here’s a good enough video I found.
I use small pieces of folded coffee filters to spread and I use extra thin CA glue.

I really want his buffing attachment !

Scott
Click to expand...
Excellent buffing attachment. His demo is an abbreviated version of what I think most of us do. I'm gonna try the medium as that may be what I was fighting with the thin. You can fill/seal very easily with the thin. When it gets up on top of the surface is where the fight with time begins! Thanks SS369!
 
Thanks Jesse! Found it....

Hidden Tang Construction, my way

I know this is "old hat" for some but may be useful for others. This is how I do a hidden tang knife. I've had this blade for some time and decided to mill the slot and file it to fit the tang. I wish I would have taken a picture of that but this will have to start here: I made sure there...
knifedogs.com
 
Likely the biggest Cons to creating CA finishes on knife handles..... is it's longevity. If applied to using knives, the finish will turn yellow or milky with repeated/long term exposure to moisture. Some CA is UV resistant (not UV proof) and others are not. The CA formulas that are specifically stated as "UV resistant" will endure longer, but either will turn a hazy/milky/yellowish over time and exposure to UV (sunlight). In the end of life....if the finish is applied thickly (as most attempt to do with CA finishes) it will craze (meaning millions of tiny cracks throughout).

As with most things I try to warn folks off of, I learned my lesson about CA handle finishes the hard way..... by having knives returned for repair/replacement.... I'd rather you learn from my mistake.... then make the same one(s) yourself. ;)
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
Likely the biggest Cons to creating CA finishes on knife handles..... is it's longevity. If applied to using knives, the finish will turn yellow or milky with repeated/long term exposure to moisture. Some CA is UV resistant (not UV proof) and others are not. The CA formulas that are specifically stated as "UV resistant" will endure longer, but either will turn a hazy/milky/yellowish over time and exposure to UV (sunlight). In the end of life....if the finish is applied thickly (as most attempt to do with CA finishes) it will craze (meaning millions of tiny cracks throughout).

As with most things I try to warn folks off of, I learned my lesson about CA handle finishes the hard way..... by having knives returned for repair/replacement.... I'd rather you learn from my mistake.... then make the same one(s) yourself. ;)
Click to expand...

I agree with Ed.

CA has a place in knifemaking. But it isn't as a handle finish in my shop.

Other experience may vary.
 
So, if one wants a durable, absolutely clear finish without a “plastic” look to it, what are the options?
I mainly use Tru-Oil, but it generally adds a yellowish cast and it mutes some vivid colors, etc.
 
SS369 said:
So, if one wants a durable, absolutely clear finish without a “plastic” look to it, what are the options?
I mainly use Tru-Oil, but it generally adds a yellowish cast and it mutes some vivid colors, etc.
Click to expand...
Few to none. Tru-Oil, or other natural oil type finishes are arguably the best overall. An option that I often use for the type of finish you're talking about, and it only works with specific types of woods, is to simply polish, and then wax.
Another good option is stabilizing.... with the caveat that it's done by an established, reputable source. Home brew stabilizing often creates more problems then it solves.

Far too often, newer knifemakers consider handle materials only from the appearance aspect, when there is much more to it.

There are very good reasons that most seasoned knifemakers tend to offer a very limited selection of natural handle materials... that being because we have figured out over time, what natural materials we not only like, but also those that cause us the least amount of both short term, and long term issues.
For me, that means African Blackwood (no ebony), Desert Ironwood, and other woods that are either very dense and/or contain extreme amounts of natural resins.... such as some rosewoods, and cocobolo. I also use stabilized woods/natural materials, but am very picky about who does the stabilizing.
 
Thank you Ed, I appreciate your time earned experience and sharing.

I do use stabilized wood and add a Tru-Oil finish to those as well because it adds a certain something to the feel - almost a grippiness.
It also adds to mellow and mute the colors a bit, which I am not always wanting because I purchase some knock out gorgeous, vivid book matched set of scales and after oiling them, not so much.

I have not tried CA glue to seal with a final coat of Tru-Oil. I might have to give that a shot. Just unsure if the two are compatible over time.

Sorry for veering off your topic Ted !
 
Ed...should I not be using CA as a sealer either? It seems to go in very deep...and I have put oil finish over without seeing any problems? I love the stuff on top for it's clarity....but long term milky won't work either! I do notice as a sealer it seems to be great for keeping "flaws" in the wood "together"...
 
Okay...on stabilized wood...I have heard horror stories on "lost" wood that appears for sale on the stabilizer's site. I have some "gettin' rare" highly figured Claro that I'm working with. It's 45 years old. Dry and harder than snot...so I'm just going to seal and finish.

I tried the cactus juice. In my opinion...it's good for softer porous woods. Very difficult to get deep in the wood on a chunk of maple or walnut. I tested by dying it red, running samples, sawing them in two. I never made it to the center of a 1 1/2" block with maple or walnut (my faves that I will be using a lot) So I quit that. I didn't feel I could say my handles were "stabilized" to a customer...so why bother? Maybe others had better luck. It did indeed make softer woods usable as handle material...and still harder than acrylic handles (which I also will not use...lol).

I would sure be interested in a stabilization source that has a good reputation. I do understand that horror stories often come from an unhappy experience that may be subject to some perspective....
 
K&G is about the only stabilizer that I would use personally.

I haven't sent anything in a while now. I've heard they can take a couple months to get it back sometimes. It used to be about 3 weeks.
 
I just sent a box to them to be stabilized. It took 2 months turnaround, only because I had about half of the blocks dyed, then stabilized. Probably would have been a 1 month turnaround if I had not had blocks dyed.

I've had blocks that were stabilized with Cactus juice, and they are just no comparison to what you get from K&G.
 
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