Rusty 1084 WIP-ish?

J. Doyle

Dealer - Purveyor
The curved sanding block is made out of 1" thick g-10. I didn't measure or lay anything out. I just cut a chunk and ground a heavy arc on the top and a longer more subtle arc on the bottom. Each end offers a different shaped arc that can be used for a variety of inside curves. A strip of sandpaper is simply held against the block on whatever surface I want to use.

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J. Doyle

Dealer - Purveyor
Drilling the holes comes next. This blade will have a heavily tapered tang so, while maybe not totally necessary, I find it MUCH easier to drill the holes prior to tapering the tang.

I Spot and drill each hole with a 1/16" drill bit. Then each hole is deburred and chamfered slightly before moving on to the next.

A whole bank of drill presses is super handy for this. I hate changing tooling back and forth....especially drill bits.

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J. Doyle

Dealer - Purveyor
Its important, especially on thick steel and with small bits, to use some sort of cutting lubricant. A friend of mine sent me a tube of Boelube....an aerospace product made by Boeing especially for drilling and tapping difficult materials. Its a dry waxy lubricant with no smell and no oily mess. Its great and this little tube lasts a LOOOOOONG time.

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DanF

Well-Known Member
Drilling the holes comes next. This blade will have a heavily tapered tang so, while maybe not totally necessary, I find it MUCH easier to drill the holes prior to tapering the tang.

I Spot and drill each hole with a 1/16" drill bit. Then each hole is deburred and chamfered slightly before moving on to the next.

A whole bank of drill presses is super handy for this. I hate changing tooling back and forth....especially drill bits.

View attachment 64858
Nice family portrait of drill presses there!
 

C Craft

Well-Known Member
Drilling the holes comes next. This blade will have a heavily tapered tang so, while maybe not totally necessary, I find it MUCH easier to drill the holes prior to tapering the tang.

I Spot and drill each hole with a 1/16" drill bit. Then each hole is deburred and chamfered slightly before moving on to the next.

A whole bank of drill presses is super handy for this. I hate changing tooling back and forth....especially drill bits.

View attachment 64858

I know which one he uses most. Look at the pile of debris under the Delta next to the Ryobi. Actually that is pretty ingenuous set each one up to a specific operation and no changing the settings over and over!!
 

bladegrinder

Well-Known Member
John, I noticed the boe lube next to your tapmatic, have you ever used Castrol moly and if so how would you compare it to the boe lube?
 

C Craft

Well-Known Member
I haven't used that but the Boelube is hands down better than any liquid cutting fluid I've used.
So I am curious, exactly how to you use that kind of lube?? Do you apply it to the surface or dip the bit in it??

The thing about liquid you got it going everywhere, while you are drilling and most of the time for it to do its job you have to have some way to apply while drilling!!
 
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