Radius Platen Guys I need Feedback !!!!!

B

Battle Creek Knives

Well-Known Member
Rotary Platen... Its uses?

Let me be as perfectly blunt as possible, I have no idea what the benefit of a radius platen is...

This may be stretching it a bit, but isn't it more like a slack belt that's fully taut??

please clue me in, as I see more and more of them lately...

there has to be a benefit, what type of grind can you achieve with this that cant be done otherwise??

thanks for your imput...

rob
 
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Rob, from what I've seen, Radius platens are used to hollow grind edges when using a wheel would not work. I've seen them used quite a bit by people who have attempted to make traditional Japanese single bevel knives, they are used to slightly concave the "flat" side of the knife to mimic the grind done by a whet stone wheel used by Japanese Smiths.
 
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My radius platten is a 36" radius. Just means the part of metal between the top and bottom 2" idler wheel is a 36" radius.
Works slick but gets hot as *hit because of the extra friction of the belt going over it.
I dont use it that much because of this but occasionally use it for a different look.
CW
 
This one I made for my Bader II. It's just an aluminum block cut on a 12" radius. It doesn't have to be very long but position between the platen wheels is critical. I could of made it shorter but attachment to the backer plate dictated it's length. I actually only use the first 1-1/2 max below the center line. It does get a bit warm, especially at the higher grits but if you remember to remove the belt after grinding you won't melt the taped joint. I use it alot and no problems yet. I'm also making 16" and 20" radius blocks with cooling holes drilled through them. Check out the prices on actual wheels in those sizes....it's an easy decision.

2011_1108radiusplaten0042.jpg2011_1108radiusplaten0041.jpg

Rudy
 
I have one in a 20" Radius that I had a friend make and have only used it a couple of times so far, I have some Chisel grind knives coming up that I will use this Radius block like Rob45 described.

Having a 20" wheel made would be a small fortune, Let alone setting up a riser block of some kind so it would go on a machine!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
Art,
I suppose I could if I wanted it set up on a dedicated machine.
The actual surface area doesn't warrant water cooling though, the block itself is only 4-1/2" long and 2" wide by 1-3/8" thick. Besides that it's also tapered. I know now that I could make them thinner and heli-arc the two peices together. I made the backer platen from aluminum to draw heat out of the block. The critical part I found was to position the whole mess just so the belt barely passes over the block untill you apply pressure to grind the bevels. Like I said, I probably don't use anymore than the first 1-1/2" if that and with a 36-80 grit belt you're not there very long. I haven't snapped a belt yet from heat, even on higher grits after HT. I don't see any reason to Rube Golberg the thing, it works fine.

Rudy
 
Rob,

You are using two different terms.

A rotary platen from KMG is for convexing blades. It has a couple adjustments.

A radiused platen allows you to grind hollows that you'd need a 48" wheel and 100"+ belts to do....
Some Japanese, kitchen cutlery knives benefit from a slight hollow for food release among other things.

Which of these two items are you inquiring about?
 
fluidsteel said:
Rob,

You are using two different terms.

A rotary platen from KMG is for convexing blades. It has a couple adjustments.

A radiused platen allows you to grind hollows that you'd need a 48" wheel and 100"+ belts to do....
Some Japanese, kitchen cutlery knives benefit from a slight hollow for food release among other things.

Which of these two items are you inquiring about?
Click to expand...

rotary platen.... I couldn't change the title, I have a separate thread around here somewhere to help bog down the forum:D
 
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