Quench Tank Build - WIP - Does this make sense?

MTBob

MTBob

Well-Known Member
I'm finally going to get serious about quenchant. I got some Parks 50 and decided that a new tank was needed. I could buy one, but that's no fun... and they won't be built like I want. Since I don't know from noth'in about quench tanks, I just noodled up something seems like it should work, like this:
Because I'm a small volume maker, I don't think I need more than 2 1/2 gallons of oil to quench a few knives at one time. And, since Parks oils are priced better in 5 gallon containers, I figured splitting that amount in half would be about right for a tank. Like many of my shop tools, this one needs to be on castors. I've made room on the base to add another tank, and I might even consider adding a horizontal tank for differential HT.
I used 5" x 1/8" plate for the sides, plenty wide for any kind of knife I'll make. There is an angled bottom baffle to allow for draining through a 3/8" ball valve. This design holds exactly 2.5 gallons with 1" clearance at the top, and provides about 24" maximum depth.
Next I'll add a hinged top cap.
It's a simple build:
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1" head space is not enough. You need at least 4", in my not so humble and overflowed oil on the floor before opinion.

Good looking tank.
 
Looks good, Bob,
MTBob said:
I don't think I need more than 2 1/2 gallons of oil to quench a few knives at one time. And, since Parks oils are priced better in 5 gallon containers, I figured splitting that amount in half would be about right for a tank.
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but are you splitting the 5 gal with someone or is there another reason not to use the 5 gal?
My 5 gal Parks50 came in a steel bucket with a removable lid and that's my quench tank.
 
The angled baffle with drain valve at the bottom is really a cool idea. Have ya tried knocking it over to test stability? I have to test myself pretty frequently as I'm the one more likely to tip over... Good job Bob.
 
tkroenlein said:
1" head space is not enough. You need at least 4"
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Good point. By dropping it a couple more inches, it will reduce the volume to around 2.4 gallons. I'll do that - I still have plenty of vertical agitation space for the blades I'm making.
billyO said:
are you splitting the 5 gal with someone or is there another reason not to use the 5 gal?
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At this time I'm not planning on splitting the 5 gallons with anyone. I decided to fabricate a tank since the oil comes in a plastic bucket and we know that's not a good quench container. I also thought that by using only half of the bucket of oil that I'll be able to regulate the amount of contamination that may take place during HT, and not mess up the entire 5 gallons. But, the smaller volume in my tank will increase the amount of heat gain during HT. Offsetting that concern is the increased mass of steel in the tank and base that will help stabilize the temperature. Excluding the base, the 5"x5" tank weighs 20 pounds.
I'm thinking of some how attaching a digital indicator to measure oil temperature. I understand that Parks 50 should not go above 120 degrees.

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MarcWeitz said:
Have ya tried knocking it over to test stability?
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The tank and base seem fairly stable. I am going to add another tank to the existing one for Parks AAA, that will make the placement of the tanks uniform on the base.
 
Bummer that yours came in a plastic bucket. I wonder if they all do, or if the place I got mine from re-packaged it...
 
Nice, I like the valve idea! I built one for longer builds out of a Galvinized post railing. This is the only picture I found. Built lid from 1/8" plate, plugged the screw holes with weld. Plan on filling with some Muratic Acid to get rid of galvanizing inside but want to keep it on outside. Welded so.e handles to it also to make it easier to pick up.
 

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Here's the finished tank. I'm going to test this out and see what kind of temperature gain I get with a set of 3 blades I've got ready to HT. I was going to put some kind of digital temperature indicator in the tank, but I think I'll keep it simple and use a standard dial type thermometer with a long reach probe (18"). I'll weld a small support bracket inside the tank to hold the thermometer, then add another bracket on the outside to store it. I found some thin weather stripping and added it to the inside of the lid and, with the latch, it makes a fairly tight seal.
If this tank size works out OK, I'll make another one for Parks AAA and place it on the base next to this tank.
Had a little fun with patina treatment on this build.

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I've been following along, and love everything you've done. But I guess my only question is.... why limit yourself to only a vertical tank? ;)
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
I've been following along, and love everything you've done. But I guess my only question is.... why limit yourself to only a vertical tank?
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Thanks Ed, coming from you that's high praise! I haven't excluded making a horizontal tank; perhaps I'd make one that sits next to the vertical tanks. But, I'm not too confident that I'm at a skill level to know how or when to use a horizontal tank. If I make one that sits on the current tank base, it would be limited to about 17" in length. I suppose could let it stick out a bit and go to around 20". Is that long enough?
 
I gotta say, I'm envious of such clean fabrication skills. I'm what's called a "pile it" welder.... pile it here, and pile it there...until something sticks together! :)

Length on a horizontal tank is just whatever YOU need it to be. ;)
As the moment, I don't even have a vertical tank in the shop.... but rather two horizontals.... one that is 36" long filled with Parks 50, and another that is 15", filled with AAA quenchant.
I typically tell folks to image the biggest blade they might ever make/intend to quench, and then build a tank 1/3 longer. :)

I know Kevin will beat me up for it, but I do a lot of differential quenching, and over the years have learned it's "tricks"... if there is such a thing. So for me, horizontal quench tanks are far more versatile, allowing me to to those edge quenches.... or fully quench when I choose to.
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
I'm envious of such clean fabrication skills.
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I'm an average MIG welder, but, out of necessity, have become an above average weld grinder...if you know what I mean!;)
I'm still pondering the question of just how much oil volume I need for the kind of knife making I do. I'm going to try out this 2.5 gal tank and see what kind of heat gain I get with HT'ing several blades. I've thought about adding a block of thick steel to the side of the tank as a heat sink to compensate for what might be too small a volume of oil.
 
Here's the finished tank.
Got a compost thermometer that has 120 degree center scale, 18" long. When measuring the temperature it is held in the tank with a little clip.
To improve uniform oil temperature I made a stirring paddle that sits & stays in the tank. The angled baffle keeps the paddle and arm to one side of the tank so it doesn't interfere with a quench.
Now to fill with Parks 50 and test the heat gain. I found some chunks of aluminum to possibly clamp to the side of the tank, if needed.
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Awesome! I thought about something similar to your agitation thing but I was gonna use it to help get large bits of scale and if I accidentally drop a knife in.
 
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