Portable Band Saws

I built my portaband stand entirely out of shop scraps, but definitely recommend a deep cut, foot pedal, and adding some type of stand or table to rest the parts on.
 
Absinthe said:
It has a speed control wheel
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I'd certainly hope so! I use my saw a ton and on a variety of materials. Plastic, wood, steel, aluminum, copper, etc. It's just a lot more convenient to use the external controller that's in front of the saw, plus it has a lot more resolution.

I actually tried a foot switch, too. For me, it was just another thing to trip over.
aelgin said:
I built my portaband stand entirely out of shop scraps, but definitely recommend a deep cut, foot pedal, and adding some type of stand or table to rest the parts on.
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Same here. I needed a saw stand one day so I threw mine together out of what was already on the workbench. Took maybe an hour. I used 1" Sch 40 steel pipe for the legs, 1/8" 316 stainless for the top, and 1"x1/8" mild steel for bracing between the legs. The saw is just held on using a couple machine screws in holes that were already in the saw.

The top is about 12"x12" and I coped it to fit the contour of the saw, just for looks.

One thing I ended up adding later was an aluminum chip tray. REALLY cuts down on the mess.
 
So, interestingly enough I tried my Deadman switch that I already have for my scroll saw. It didn't work. Nor does a zip tie, or even a clamp. If the trigger is depressed before the saw is powered, then it will not run. It must be powered before the switch is depressed.

It does cut nicely though. I will try some more later. But so far only brass. Next session may introduce some .125 nickel silver and brass, and perhaps some knife steel.
 
aelgin said:
I haven't had one any other tools in the shop either, but I really like it.
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I went the opposite way with my wood cutting bandsaw. I took the electric motor off and put on a Honda gas engine. When I'm using it, I fire it up and just let it idle when I'm not using it. LOL.

I wanted a variable speed wood bandsaw, but also wanted it outside.

As a bonus, I actually use the vibration from the motor to shake the dust shoot that comes off the bottom of the saw.
 
Absinthe said:
So, interestingly enough I tried my Deadman switch that I already have for my scroll saw. It didn't work. Nor does a zip tie, or even a clamp. If the trigger is depressed before the saw is powered, then it will not run. It must be powered before the switch is depressed.

It does cut nicely though. I will try some more later. But so far only brass. Next session may introduce some .125 nickel silver and brass, and perhaps some knife steel.
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Sounds like a safety feature. That's what ya get for getting one of them fancy Bosch saws! :D

I can tell you from experience, with a good blade. 1" thick solid square for hardy tooling isn't a problem. Not just mild steel, either. I know I've cut 1" 4140 and 1045 shaft.

I recommend keeping a variety of blades on hand and don't hesitate to swap them. Just like belts for the grinder.

The most aggressive blade that I'm aware of for the 44-7/8"X1/2" saws is 10TPI. Starrett sells some on Amazon.

Edit: the 10TPI would be good for cutting shanks for hardie tooling, but I I bet where it'd shine would cutting handle material down to rough size.
 
52 Ford said:
Addressing the issue where you have to reset the trigger every time you want to make a cut. This isn't an ideal solution, but when I first made my saw stand, I used this style clamp on the saw's trigger. https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-.../4-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-68974.html
Might be worth a shot for 99 cents LOL
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I have a similar clamp on my Milwaukee Porta-band. It's worked so well I've never bothered with a zip tie. And I have the foot switch for it also. The thing I like about the foot switch, or deadman switch if you prefer, is I can turn it off so fast. Not because of safety, but because it's so loud. Even though I wear ear muffs when I use it, the foot switch saves me more than one headache.
 
Of course the mini table is on a slider like in track. Definitely a little different design from some of the videos I've seen. :)
 
I made up a switched outlet box that my Porta-Band plugs into. You could make one for about $15 worth of electrical parts from the hardware store. My saw plugs into the outlet, and a standard switch turns power on or off. I can't remember how I locked my trigger... I think I use a small c-clamp or a couple of zip ties.

The "switch box" mounts on my bench just under where my bandsaw lives.
 
Drew Riley said:
I made up a switched outlet box that my Porta-Band plugs into. You could make one for about $15 worth of electrical parts from the hardware store. My saw plugs into the outlet, and a standard switch turns power on or off. I can't remember how I locked my trigger... I think I use a small c-clamp or a couple of zip ties.

The "switch box" mounts on my bench just under where my bandsaw lives.
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That wont work for the Bosch. The switch gets locked out if it is powered up already.
 
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