Platen Assembly Modifications

MTBob

Well-Known Member
I thought I'd show a recap of some modifications I've made to the Reeder grinder platen assembly. As a hobbyist knife maker, I enjoy making tools and modifying equipment about as much as knife making. My grinder doesn't stand the test of full time knife making, but it does get used hard for lots of other projects.
In this thread - https://knifedogs.com/threads/felt-platen-duro.53479/ - TAZ575 referenced using knobs on the adjustment arms. Stealing his idea, I decided to add that feature too.
You can see in these photos the addition of a glass platen, one of several platen attachments that I use. Each one has a different thickness. So, for quick adjustment I've added two machined knurled knobs for use on the positioning arms. Using a solid rod in one hand, I can place the rod across the upper and lower wheels and platen face, loosen the adjustment arms with the other hand and quickly align the platen face to the wheels.
Notice also I've replaced the standard hex head cap screw that secures the platen rotation with an adjustable handle bolt. I suppose the adjustable handles could be used on the platen adjustment arms too. I just like the ease of using knurled knobs on low stress attachments.
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This photo shows the addition of an upper horizontal platen surface that I use for sharpening. I use this with a T Bar mounted on the lower tool arm. Having a solid surface eliminates movement in the belt and keeps the secondary angle flat and more accurately aligned. One of these days I'll do a posting showing the sharpening setup.
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VERY neat grinder mod, sir! I've long wanted a horizontal platen to try and flat grind on freehand.

Thank you for sharing!
 
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MTBob, do you run your grinder in reverse? I tend to run in reverse for sharpening and length wise grinding.

I also enjoy making tools about as much as knifemaking.
 
MTBob, do you run your grinder in reverse? I tend to run in reverse for sharpening and length wise grinding.

I also enjoy making tools about as much as knifemaking.
Ken
Yes, for sharpening I run the belt in reverse at about 25-30% on the KBAC controller. This speed is slow enough to minimize overheating issues. By running in reverse, and with a proper light, it's easy to see when the burr is produced. The Reeder grinder uses a 2 axis tracking wheel. This helps control the belt position when running backwards.
 
I've felt that Reeder grinder would be my choice where I planning to purchase a grinder along with the SGA. I saw that 2 axis tracking wheel adjustment when Reeder first came out with it. I studied it some, then build a similar design for my KMB clone. I've made so many changes to the grinder it's to the point of not being considered a KMG clone.
 
I made a 1X42 grinder out of some parts from a junk 1X30, and that platen is closer to horizontal that vertical... 20 degrees, maybe? I made it specifically for sharpening.

I actually intend for it to be a wet belt grinder, but I need to finish making the guards before I post pictures on the forum (it's ugly right now). When I have the water pump on, it does an excellent job keeping blades and tools cool.

Sent from my Champion Forge using Tapatalk
 
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